Breed-Specific Legislation, the Facts.

What is it, and why?

Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) is legislation that imposes discrimination against a specific breed or breeds of dog. BSL either entirely bans the breed(s) regardless of context, or severely restricts the ownership and breeding of the breeds in which it has legislated against. The law is in place across the world, from the UK, to many states in the USA, to Australia, to Canada, Germany, France and many other countries.

Its purpose? To supposedly reduce dog bites.

Supporters claim the purpose is to reduce dog attacks by not allowing breeds inherently predisposed to attack, to exist around others.

Originally the 'Nanny Dog', the Pit-Bull has now been demonized by the media

The facts

• At birth, all dogs, regardless of breed, are ‘blank slates’, meaning they can be mentally shaped into anything. Even though dogs do have individual quirks, this is predominantly due to the fact that every single dog is raised differently. No matter how hard you try, each and every dog will experience life differently and therefore develop their own individual quirks.
• Adding, removing or accentuating behaviours during the first weeks and months of a dog’s life dramatically (often always) increase the chances of the same behaviours occurring or not occurring later in life.
• Though sometimes more difficult, at adulthood, any behaviour can still be added, removed or accentuated.
• Lineage is significantly more important than the breed of dog in determining likely characteristics or likely temperament traits of a dog. Even so, it only increases the likeliness; it is not set in stone and therefore can be change or removed.

What do these facts show? Breed does not determine the way a dog will be. So what does? The environment and individuals in the environment in which each dog is raised and cared for.

With this being the case, why then are breeds banned to prevent dog attacks? This is mainly due to the statistics of dog attacks, the media and propaganda.

What gives them a right to make this law? Statistics?

Yes, statistically it is often the case that Pit-Bulls are involved in the most dog-related attacks where they are legal. However, what is NOT the case is that A- these statistics are reliable and B- they show the root of the problem. The statistics on Pit-Bull attacks refer to attacks by three distinct breeds; the Staffordshire, American Pit, and American Staffordshire Bull Terriers, any mix of those breeds and any misidentification of those breeds, of which there are thousands, as not many people can properly identify a breed. They also only take into account reported incidents – clearly people are more inclined to report alleged incidents involving Pit-Bulls rather than say, a Cocker Spaniel. The statistics also take into account incidents wherein the dog is forced or provoked to bite or attack, which leads onto the next point, as abusive owners often target Pit-Bulls, for that reason alone the statistics will dramatically increase in the number of Pit-Bull related attacks. So as far as statistics are concerned, Pit-Bulls are ‘set-up’ to fail.

Along with these ridiculous statistics, media coverage of any and every dog attack involving a Pit-Bull, and a false belief that breed determines behaviour, these are all the reasons for BSL. It’s important to understand this, because there isn’t simply no reason behind BSL, it’s just unreasonable. BSL is just the lazy, easy way for a government to satisfy people’s shock to media hyped Pit-Bull attacks, there’s no science or (logical) logic behind it.

BSL across the world

Across the world, in all instances, BSL is failing, not only is it failing but it is worsening the problem. The list is exhaustive:

• In the Netherlands, where Pit-Bulls have been banned for the past 15 years, dog bites are rising, and rising.
• In the United Kingdom where several breeds including Pit-Bulls are banned under the Dangerous Dogs Act, dog bites have increased by 50%, and are still rising.
• Pit-Bull bans in Maryland and Colorado both have been ineffective, with no change in the number of dog bites.
• In Canada, BSL was introduced in 2005, and dog bites statistics have not changed, showing zero effectiveness.
• Aragon, Spain, BSL was introduced in 2000 and dog bites have not changed.
• Australia is falling down the same hole, from the governments website itself “Restricted Breed Dogs have additional restrictions and limitations placed on them to prevent members of the public from being attacked by such dogs.” The absurdity here is almost laughable, but not quite. Note how the owner is not once mentioned, just the supposedly born-vicious breed, the owner could be kicking the dog in the head for all they care.
  

  World famous dog behaviorist Cesar Millan and his assistants Daddy and Junior, both Pit-Bulls

These are just a few of many examples where BSL has proven ineffective; there is no shortage, because BSL simply doesn’t work. Though it must be noted some countries are taking initiative, for example in the UK the Dog Control Bill is passing through parliament, it targets owners instead of specific breeds, though it is unlikely to un-ban the American Pit Bull.

The Problem

In addition to the problems of BSL mentioned, here are a lofty few more:

• It is extremely costly, not only to ensure specific breeds aren’t kept or bred, but to hold and/or euthanize illegal dogs for periods of time.
• It ignores the real problem, bad and abusive ownership.
• It ignores the many victims of attacks by non-banned breeds.
• It does not prevent or reduce dog bites.
• It accentuates the issue that some dogs appear ‘tough’ and are physically capable, therefore are more desirable by criminals and abusers.
• It requires all dogs to be identified as a breed, which is near impossible as, for example, some dogs may be 1/6 Pit-Bull. It is difficult to track the entire lineage of each dog.
• With one breed banned, the REAL problem, the bad owners, simply move to another breed, and so on, and so on, and so on, and so on, and so on………
• It shifts the accountability and responsibility from the poor owners to the dog, because of its breed.
• It punishes the responsible owners, whom, for example, use Pit-Bulls as child therapy dogs or rescue dogs, they will be indiscriminately destroyed.
• Innocent family pets are killed in vast numbers.
• ‘Hate’ is generated towards specific breeds and people with specific breeds.
• People begin to fear dogs, due to the false belief that tough-looking breeds are automatically dangerous and to be feared.
• It is made with the idea that it will end suffering, quoting PETA, whom support BSL “[Pit-Bull Bans] have the potential to prevent an enormous amount of suffering” – where in-fact it does the exact opposite.
• It is ABSURD.

The Solution

Two solutions: education, and legislation.

• Educate, educate, educate. Educate on how to properly raise and own a dog, regardless of the breed. Dogs are a different species to us, with different needs and wants. Many owners simply don’t understand their canine companions, and here the problem is a lack of knowledge, from which many bites do occur.

- Educate in schools to children about how to be around animals safely from an early age. Currently all children have to go by are movies and TV shows where dogs talk or are given human personalities – children are socialized at an early age to HUMANIZE dogs, this is a huge problem, children need to be taught the specific needs and ways of dogs and how to behave around them.

- Integrate animals, specifically dogs, into society and education, so there are resources readily available to everyone to better understand dogs.

- A general understanding of dogs among all people would solve the problem, writing this I am coming from a viewpoint of knowledge, and if everyone were to share the same viewpoint, there would be no dog bites and absurd laws like BSL would not exist, this is why education is important.

• Legislate, legislate, legislate. Regulate the ownership of dogs. Because dogs are all blank slates at birth, and amendable at adulthood, it makes sense that all breeds are treated equally when it comes to legislation. Dog ownership should be heavily regulated for one simple reason; they are living creatures! It shouldn’t be so easy to get your hands on one, it’s as easy as going down to the grocery store and buying a turnip, that is the problem. To own a dog you should meet a set of requirements, responsible owners would be happy to comply with this as it would prevent negligent owners from obtaining a pet.

- In addition to regulating dog ownership, delegate police units to enforce regulation and tackle abuse in forms such as dogfighting.

- Introduce low cost or free spay and neuter programmes, to encourage people have their dog altered.

- Make dog owners FULLY liable for their pet’s actions, no two ways about it, the breed has nothing to do with it.

Winnie the Pit-Bull who left a legacy of saving rescued pits

The problems of BSL are endless, but so are the solutions, let’s get the information out there and make a difference.

- George Manning

Feral Dog Pack

1. Never be negative around your dog, always be positive or neutral, especially when addressing an unwanted behaviour. If you are not calm and collected when addressing an undesirable behaviour, the dog will respond negatively. You get what you give with dogs, if you give negativity you will find it right back on your lap in due course.
2. Dogs are individuals. Each and every dog deserves individual treatment. The way you behave with one dog should not be exactly the same as the way you behave with another. This is important. Some dogs can run into a wall at full pace and be ready to do it again within seconds, whereas others shudder at the sound of a pin drop. Some dogs are driven and thrive on retrieving objects, whereas others may be motivated at any opportunity to dig a hole. Treat dogs as individuals and they will love you for it.
3. See your dog(s) as state of mind first, followed by, and as a result, their needs to become fulfilled, then you can see them as whatever you want, as little furry people, if you wish.
4. Be consistent. If you are inconsistent with anything even once, your dog will notice, they don’t care that you were consistent every single day for the last 20 years, if right now you are not, they know.
5. Be structured. Just like it is healthy for us to have structure, goals and discipline in our lives, the same goes with dogs. Whether it be a simple routine such as walking the dog at the same times every day, or a complex ritual such as having the dog sit for 5 minutes before morning feeding time, be structured.
6. Dogs define simplicity. They don’t have anywhere near the number of complex things going on in their lives to us. Their lives are simple; awake, walk, eat, rest. Respect this, respect their way of life, and honour their needs.
7. Dogs learn by association in the moment. This means that whatever you do or say at any one time becomes associated with whatever they are doing at the same time. For example if your dog is playing with you and you say “Play!” after a few repetitions this word now becomes associated with playing, and the dog is likely to play if prompted by the word.
8. Dogs don’t give each other names. Names are something we create for each other, dogs don’t do this. The doggy-equivalent of ‘name’ to dogs is scent, mostly of the anal glands. So, to get the best out of naming your dog – taking into consideration point 1 – use the name for one behaviour only, for example to get the dog to come to you. And use it sparingly! If you over-use the name, it will eventually have no meaning, as is the case with most dog owners. One it has been associated with behaviour, use it only once or twice until they perform the behaviour.
9. Dogs thrive on working. By allowing them to work for everything from food, praise, toys, walks to even space on the sofa, you are fulfilling their innate desire to receive rewards only after exerting effort. As a result, they will be happy and relaxed at the end of the day. Don’t take my word for it, try it, they really do love it.
10. Be a leader. Every animal responds to leadership. The world needs someone to know what they’re doing, become this someone. Dogs respond naturally to leaders, the very presence of a confident and relaxed leader makes them feel calm and safe. If they believe you are strong enough to take care of things, they will not feel the need to. They won’t, for example, feel the need to protect you against other people or dogs. You’ve got it covered, remember that.

Practise new things with your dog one step at a time each day, never rush. These tips are just a taster of the vast amount of information out there.

- George Manning

Dogs can change our lives, if we let them

Some of the most popular dog sports include;

• Agility

• Backpacking

• Biking/Bikejoring

• Cani cross

• Carting

• Dock Jumping

• Flyball

• Herding

• Mushing

• Obedience

• Retrieving

• Swimming

• Tracking

The sports involve;

Agility

Agility – probably the most popular dog sport, agility involves the handler directing their dog through various obstacles on an obstacle course. Obstacles can include dog walks, jumps, weave poles, see-saws and tunnels, among other things. Directions are given through voice and body language, but require the dog’s initiative for the most part. Competition generally involves dividing dogs into sizes and ruling the winner based predominantly on how quickly they complete the course. Competing can certainly make the handler more vigilant, more intense and quicker to respond, all of which will result in more fun on both the human and dog’s part, so why not.
For more info or to find a club near you, contact the United States Dog Agility Association http://www.usdaa.com/ the North American Dog Agility Council http://www.nadac.com/ or the American Kennel Club http://www.akc.org/ If you live in the UK there is a list of clubs by region here http://agilitynet.co.uk/activepages/clubs.asp

Backpacking – quite simply this involves strapping a dog backpack to your dog for a hike. The dog can carry water, toys, food, dog bowls and other useful things. US – http://wolfpacks.com/ UK – http://www.4activedogs.co.uk/

Bikejoring

Biking – this involves riding a bike with the dog on lead next to, or preferably attached via a bike-dog attachment. This allows dogs that prefer to run to really let loose and have fun. Most dogs’ natural pace is a jogging or running speed, so a bike allows us relatively slow and frail mammals called humans, to keep up with the rugged, quick and tough mammal, our companion dogs. More info here http://www.springer-uk.com/ Bikejoring is the sport form of this.

Cani Cross – simple but fun sport that involves attaching a long lead to the waist of the handler that is attached to a harness around the dog or dogs, which allows the dog to pull the handler whilst running. Originally with the purpose of off-season training for mushing and sledding dogs, it is now an emerging sport of its own right, and becoming increasingly popular. It is great exercise for both human and dog, as well as giving the dog the job of pulling the handler for a lot of the run. It suits natural pulling / sled type dogs best, but is open to dogs of all breeds, shapes and sizes. Many dogs enjoy pulling regardless of their breed. More info here http://www.canicross.org.uk/ and here http://www.cani-cross.co.uk/ Not so popular in the US, here is one club in Minnesota http://www.points-unknown.com/canicross_hiking_club.htm

Carting – this is an activity that involves the dog pulling a dog cart containing supplies, or sometimes a human (see Mushing). This best suits large and strong dogs, such as mastiff, bull and sled type dogs. Carts can be found here http://dogworks.com/ but generally any cart will do, just ensure it is safe and comfortably attached to the dog.

Dock Jumping

Dock Jumping – a sport that is recently becoming popular this summer that involves the dog jumping for distance or height, from a dock, into water. It offers not only a way for dogs to cool off in the heat, but to have great fun too in jumping at speed from a platform. Often a toy is used to motivate the dog to jump, known as the “chase object” but is not required to retrieve or get the toy. This is the ideal summer sport so get out there and have a go, more info here http://www.dockdogs.com/

Flyball – This is a fast paced sport involving teams of dogs racing against each other, over hurdles, to a box that releases a ball to pick up and return, back over the hurdles, to the handler. This is best suited to quick, agile dogs, but is not necessarily restricted to certain breeds. British Flyball Association http://www.flyball.org.uk/North American Flyball Association http://www.flyball.org/

Herding

Herding – this involves using a dog to move a group of animals, usually sheep or goat, from one place to another. This is best suited to (of course) herding breeds which range from Collies to Rottweilers and German Shepherds. Often people have a working collie as a pet, only to watch them destroy their home, shake nonstop and fixate on just about everything; this occurs simply because working collies were born to herd day in day out, so don’t deprive them of this. There are many herding type breeds and a lot of dogs enjoy it anyway. Herding breeds such as Border Collies were selectively bred to perform only 3 parts of the hunt, sight, stalk and chase, without the kill. Replacing the kill part of the hunt is a little nip on the legs or feet of the animal, which is often not even necessary or required. The best way to find out where you can take your dog to herd, is to contact the breed club or association for your breed, for example the Border Collie Club of the UK.

Dog-Sledding

Mushing – mushing is a term used to describe any mode of ‘dog-powered’ transport. It always involves attaching the dog via harness to a piece of equipment that the handler stands or sits on, the dog pulls this equipment whilst the handler assists in directing the dog or dogs. This is arguably more efficient and fun than Canicross, as the dog exerts less effort and higher speeds are reached. It can be in the form of bikejoring, skijoring, dog-sledding, pulka, scootering, freighting and weight pulling. Learn more http://sleddog.org http://www.webheads.co.uk/sleddog/

Obedience – this involves directing the dog to do specific acts often to a standard, for example “sit” “stay” “stop” “heel” “jump” etc. Obedience classes are common in the United States, and dotted around the UK as well. The American Kennel Club and Kennel Club offer certifications for levels of obedience. Do not get confused however, obedience is separate to dog behavior and behavioral issues. Obedience involves teaching dogs to understand human commands and acts, whereas dog behavior and addressing dog behavior issues involves understanding THEM, and helping them to return to their natural state of mental balance. Obedience is enjoyable for both human and dog as it involves a lot of mental stimulation and challenge, as well as being impressive to watch and show. AKC obedience – http://www.akc.org/events/obedience/index.cfm KC obedience – http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/obedience

Retrieving – a simple activity that involves placing or releasing an object a distance from the handler for a dog to collect and return to the handler. Most dogs can enjoy this, but is best suited to retriever breeds such as the Labrador Retriever and Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrieving, among many other breeds, these breeds were also bred to retrieve from water and is another great activity.

Swimming – any dog can learn to swim. In summer time swimming really is something all dog owners must try. Whether it be in a paddle pool, a pond, or a swimming pool, dogs love it. Similar to humans, it challenges a lot of muscles in their body, as well as mentally stimulating them to keep afloat and move fast. Many dogs naturally love to jump into water aswell. All dogs naturally enjoy water, it is an important innate trait, but some dogs either aren’t exposed to it or create a negative association, so need a dedicated handler to help them learn to love water. It doens’t matter if you don’t own a pool, head down to the local lake or pond, your dog will love the cool off along with the stimulation.

Tracking – tracking is the one sport that encourages above the others, the most powerful and important part of the dog, the nose. Dogs prioritize the world as smells before sights, so tracking really does help utilize this natural ability. Dogs use their noses all the time, just watch your dogs nose and you will realise just how much they use it. Tracking involves simply finding an object or person using the dogs nose, often following a scent trail. You can lay scent tracks with the object of the scent at the end of the track, to give the dog a bit of assistance and enjoyment in following a specific scent path. Tracking trials are the official form of tracking, but really anyone can do it. Tracking is divided into air and ground scenting, with the meanings in the name, dogs use both during tracking. ALL dogs should be exposed to this activity, it is not breed specific but some breeds such as Bloodhounds may be much more suited to tracking at a very high level.

Dog Surfing

Surfing – this involves surfing either with a dog with the handler on the board, or with the dog alone on the board. Dogs naturally like to try and stay on platforms afloat in water, so can adjust quickly to surfing alone. Some associations offer a dog surf-a-thon in the USA, for the more extravagent dog-sport enthusiasts. Nonetheless, anyone can try putting their dog on a board or lilo in water, as long as they like water, they will enjoy staying afloat.

There are literally hundreds of sports, these are just a few of the most popular. This summer offers so many opportunities to try out new things with your dog(s), everyone should take advantage.

Get out there and have fun,

- George

Companies in the United States:

Ami
02392 45 33 55
www.aminews.co.uk

Amoré Pet Services, Inc.
1-866-572-6673
www.amorepetfoods.com

Animal Food Services
1-800-743-0322
www.animalfood.com

Artemis Pet Food
1-800-282-5876
www.artemiscompany.com

Azmira Holistic Animal Care
1-800-497-5665
www.azmira.com

Bravo Raw Diet
1-866-922-9222
www.bravorawdiet.com

Burns Pet Health, Inc.
1-877-983-9651
www.burnspethealth.com

CaniSource
1-888-347-3523
www.canisource.com

CountryPet Pet Food
1-800-454-7387
www.countrypet.com

Dr. Harvey’s
1-866-362-4123
www.drharveys.com

Dynamite Marketing, Inc.
208-887-9410
www.dynamitemarketing.com

Eagle Pack Pet Foods
800-255-5959
www.eaglepack.com

Evanger’s Dog and Cat Food Co., Inc.
1-800-288-6796
www.evangersdogfood.com

Feline’s Pride
www.felinespride.com

Fromm Family Foods
800-325-6331
www.frommfamily.com

Great Life Performance Pet Products
1-800-470-2001
www.doctorsfinest.com

GreenTripe.Com
831-726-3255
www.greentripe.com

Halo, Purely for Pets
1-800-426-4256
www.halopets.com

Happy Dog Food
1-800-359-9576
www.happydogfood.com

Holistic Blend1-800-954-1117
www.holisticblend.com

The Honest Kitchen
1-866-437-9729
www.thehonestkitchen.com

Know Better Dog Food
1-866-922-6463
www.knowbetterdogfood.com

KosherPets, Inc.
954-938-6270
www.kosherpets.com

Kumpi Pet Foods
303-699-8562
www.kumpi.com

Mark and Chappell
866-547 3368
www.markandchappell.com

Newman’s Own Organics
www.newmansownorganics.com

Nutri-Vet
1-877-729-8668
www.nutri-vet.com

Oma’s Pride
1-800-678-6627
www.omaspride.com

Pet Chef Express
604-916-2433
www.petchefexpress.ca

PetGuard
1-800-874-3221
904-264-8500
www.petguard.com

Pied Piper Pet & Wildlife
1-800-338-4610
www.piedpiperpet.com

PoshNosh Inc.
613-747-1542
1-866-893-4006 (Outside Ottawa-Outaouais)
www.PoshNosh.ca

Raw Advantage, Inc.
360-387-5158
www.rawadvantagepetfood.com

Sauder Feeds, Inc.
260-627-2196
www.sauderfeeds.com

Sojourner Farms
1-888-867-6567
www.sojos.com

Solid Gold
800-364-4863
www.solidgoldhealth.com

Stella & Chewy’s LLC
718-522-9673
www.stellaandchewys.com

Timberwolf Organics, Inc.
407-877-8779
www.timberwolforganics.com

Veterinary Nutritional Formula
1-800-811-0530
www.vnfpetfood.com

Weruva
1-800-776-5262
www.weruva.com

Wysong Canada
1-800-748-0188
www.wysongcanada.net

Companies in the United Kingdom:

Ami
02392 45 33 55

Antos Ltd
0844 800 9201

Applaws Natural Cat & Dog Food

08707 508606

Arden Grange

Barker & Barker
01253 811887

Burns Pet Nutrition Ltd

01554 890482

Cambrian Pet Foods Ltd
01559 384216

CLINIVET ® Nutrition
028 9447 3840

The Co-operative Food

CSJ Specialist Canine Feeds
01745 710470

Europa Pet Foods
0845 658 0987

Feelwell’s
0870 977 0044

Forthglade Ltd
01837 83322

Fromm and Eagle Pack
01531 633985

Healthy Paws
0151 931 3336

Land of Holistic Pets Ltd
0845 373 4120

Laughing Dog
01788 810283

Lily’s Kitchen
0845 680 5459

Mark and Chappell
01582 583888

Nature Diet
01362 822320

Organipets
0845 3880935

Pero Pet Foods
0800 917 9697

Pets’ Kitchen
01285 711151

Pooch & Mutt
020 8133 7667

Roger Skinner Limited
01379 384 247

Solid Gold Health Products

The Dog Deli
01603 860 896

Trophy Pet Foods
01367 240333

Vitalin Pet Foods
01765 605156

If you feed your dog on a raw food diet, ensure that it is humanely reared and sourced to high welfare standards (will be clearly stated on the packaging – or ask the butcher/dealer).

Fear was actually one of the most prominent features in dogs long ago. Before domestic dogs came about, there was only the wolf (see article “What is a Dog”). Wolves had a level of innate fear of humans due to prolonged competition for resources that involved us often hunting and killing wolves, or at the least scaring them off from campsites and kill-sites. So fear is not a foreign to dogs, for many years up until dogs began to fully rely on us for survival, fear was an inborn and important trait.

So, how did we manage to create a fearless canine companion out of a wild and fearful wolf? Food: food was the determining factor in pushing the wolves over the edge to actually eventually approaching humans which led to their domestication. Konrad Lorenz, the famous animal psychologist said “To gain a desired prey, a dog or wolf will do things that, in other contexts, they would shy away from”. This was true for the wolf, when it chose to push the boundaries in scavenging our kills, and is still true today when we consider dealing with fear in dogs.

Domestic dogs were created on the very foundation that they overcame their fear of us through the potential of food, so we can use this very real concept to help dogs overcome fear issues today. Our recent ancestors helped to create the dog in the first step of allowing them to scavenge from our kills. In this interaction the wolf is fearful and very closely observing the human and the human’s possible intentions (you can see where this went to creating a new species that could understand human communication). Furthermore in this interaction the human is not too worried over what the wolf is doing. If the human was worried about the wolf’s presence on the kill he would have scared her off thus making the fear worse, but this would not have happened, else we would not have dogs today. So the concepts that we can transfer are, the presence of food, and the lack of interest towards the animal. This, in today’s world, creates curiosity in a fearful dog, just like it likely did with wolves back a few thousand years ago. The process of overcoming the fear is also gradual, just as it was with the wolf. So we can loosely base helping fearful dogs today based on some of these facts and assumptions. Of course there are different types of fear, specific and generalized fear. Specific fear is fear towards something specific (of course) such as people, dogs, the hose or cars etc. Specific fears are motivated by specific causes, such as being hit by a car, therefore becoming fearful towards the car. Generalized fear is a general fear of most things, mainly movement, people, noise, everything, really.

Notice the Coyote is keeping its body close to the ground, tail tucked between the legs and a small crease upwards on the inner corner of the eye (as if worried). The dog however is making itself as large as possible, the opposite of fear.

Conclusions drawn and how to help a dog overcome fear of people or strangers

So, a lack of interest, no direct eye contact, no direct confrontation, a relaxed, confident posture and mental state, and the presence of (preferably a strong smelling meat-based) food are all key to tapping into the dog’s natural curiosity functions. This first step may take time, the aim is to have the dog approach you, and eventually get close enough to consider eating that food (in your hand or pouch). This is starting to sound like a dating article, but the aim is to drive the dog “crazy” for the food, the principle of classical conditioning means that this positive and enjoyably challenging experience becomes associated with your presence, and guess what? Fear isn’t a part of that experience.

Try to hold back actually giving the treat, allow nibbles to keep the dog interested (so she knows what she’s actually working for) but save the real treat until you are sure the mind is relaxed, shown in part by a tail that is relaxed (down is ok, as long as it isn’t tense/tucked) and relaxed eyes (not wide open) and few creases around the eyes (these creases mean the dog is tensing her face). It’s really a matter of controlling your mental state and quietly observing the dog’s actions and acting appropriately to those actions, there is no specific way of doing this that can be laid out into detailed and specific steps, rather you must take upon the small amount of information and learn as you go. If you are in the slightest bit aggressive, frustrated, tense, feeling sorry, in a rush, nervous, or worried about getting it wrong, the dog will pick up on this and likely show little interest in you. The key to attracting a fearful dog is to be confident with a lack of interest but a MOTIVE for the approach, kind of like the attractive girl at school, she’s confident, shows a lack of interest in the guys but leaves the guys with a motive, her looks.

With fear, generally, the only real way of overcoming it in dogs (and humans for that matter) is to be exposed to what creates the fear. A dog can only overcome its fear of humans if humans are present. If a dog that feared humans was exposed to many humans on a daily basis, eventually she would realise they are not harming her, thus the negative association is removed. This simple concept is the basis of “exposure therapy” used mainly on humans to overcome phobias and fears. Along with exposure to the item or object of fear, positivity can be introduced when the mind begins to relax so an instant positive association between this relaxation (replacing the fear) and the once item of fear is created. Almost all people have a fear of public speaking for example, the only difference between these people and the people that do not have a fear is that the people who do not faced that fear enough to overcome and enjoy it.

This was the best picture I could find… Notice the dilated pupils, wide open eyes, crease in between the eyes (the ‘cautious’ line down the middle of the head), creases around the eyes, wet nose (increased moisture has something to do with increased receptivity or trying to cool down), body orientation is moving away from the human with only the head facing, right paw is about to be lifted, tail is tucked, increased muscle outline (indicates tension), ears forward, closed mouth, back left leg seems to be attempting to depress, a sign of wanting to be closer to the ground / making itself smaller, there are many other things going on but ALL these are signs of flight/fear (in this case, but not always so with all of them)

Another way of helping a dog to overcome fear is often just the presence of others dogs. We are no match for dogs in knowing what to do when faced with a behavior problem in another dog. Ontop of this, dogs are happiest and feel most natural and free when among their own species. With many fearful dogs, the simple presence of another dog, especially a calm and experienced dog, will immediately eradicate or reduce the fear at that time, allowing for it to gradually disappear.

Even fearful dogs have something that they absolutely love (besides food I mean here). A dog with a strong prey drive will almost always be brought out of the fearful state in order to focus on the prey. A dog that loves to run will brought out of the fearful state whilst running. These examples both play on the fact that dogs can only focus on one thing at once! It is not simply distracting them however, inadvertently everything in the surroundings becomes associated with not feeling fearful at that time, for whatever reason. So tap into what your dog loves, one way of doing this can be through researching the breed.

There are many other hints and tips on helping fearful dogs but as always, contacting a behaviorist is the best option if you are dealing with a fearful dog, they will understand and teach you the dos and don’ts when it comes to helping and rehabilitating that dog.

Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) is legislation directed at certain breeds of dogs to reduce or eliminate their existence. It is unjustifiable and ineffective for a whole host of reasons.

It does not tackle the problem of poor ownership. Instead it attacks innocent victims, dogs of specific breeds. At first it seems to make no sense whatsoever, but it is important to understand the government’s reasoning.

Breed specific legislation is aimed predominantly at “Pit-Bull type” breeds. Now the shocking thing is that this term can refer to 42, or possibly more, breeds, and any variation or mix of those breeds.

The government works on statistics that show the majority of dog bites are caused by pit-bull type dogs. But how exactly can you record every single dog bite that happens? The information is gathered by the government and it is probable to claim that bites from pit-bull type dogs are recorded more often than from other dogs. Similarly it is probable to claim that people report bites from pit-bull types dogs a considerable amount more than from other breeds. Furthermore it is likely that the government feels more inclined to record reports of dog bites from pit-bull type dogs. This happens as a result of media hype and a poor control and understanding of the cause of dog bites by the government. A thousand Labradors may bite in one day, but if one pit-bull bites, it is likely it will be the only one that grabs the media’s attention. Let’s face it, it’s popular news, and grabs people’s attention.

An amusing example of the absurdity of BSL involves a US senator. This US senator was a strong hater of specific breeds and fought for many, mostly pit-bull type breeds, to be banned. Soon after his campaigning became more prominent, however, his very own dog, a Labrador retriever, bit someone. The dog was held by law forces and it was debated by courts whether to have the dog put to sleep. The senator begged and begged for his dog to be saved, very much like those on the brute end of BSL beg for their harmless dogs to be saved. The senator proved his own point wrong. The senator being a judgemental, aggressive and busy man, his dog would’ve received an amount of negative energy, a lack of socialisation and a lack of good exercise, hence good reasoning to feel the need to bite, not because of its breed.

BSL in the UK

BSL tightened up in the UK following the occurrence of a few dog bites by specific breeds that gained wide and exaggerated news coverage. All of which of course were prompted by a simple lack of training and exercise of the dogs in question. However, with the graphic images and horrific stories shocking people nationwide, the government had to act fast. The government used mainly the opinions of the police force, media spin and subsequently public response to make their decision to ban certain breeds. The first decision to consult the police was not the most wise as the only breeds associated with criminal activity in the UK are Pit-bull type dogs, mainly as status dogs for the “tough-look” and in some cases dog fighting, both of which are entirely human created and controlled activities. Had criminals chosen to use Labradors for these purposes, the Labrador breed would therefore suffer, given that police opinion and experience would state Labradors are seemingly the most “dangerous”. The truth is, of course, is that the handlers of the dogs are the only ones that can be put to blame and the brute end of legislation. The second decision to use the media spin and public response was also poor. Many bites occur in the UK, yet the only ones that get coverage are those committed by breeds on the Dangerous Dogs Act, and considering that the media is closely associated with the government, it is likely the government used the media as a supporter for their rushed legislation.

A wise and considerate government would target the owners associated with negative dog activities and try to save and protect the dogs and breeds from poor and abusive ownership. Furthermore an effective government would aim to educate the public on proper dog ownership and the truth that breed does not determine behaviour, handler does. However, the reality is the government did not do this and the problem is only partially suppressed, with dog fighting, dog abuse and status dogs still a problem. The legal Staffordshire bull terrier is now used widely across the UK for criminal activity as opposed to the now banned American Pit Bull terrier and other breeds. Abusive owners will only switch from breed to breed if breeds become banned or more likely just ignore the BSL in place. Clearly banning specific breeds is not an effective route of solving the problem of dog bites

I will conclude this article with an E-Petition that was created following the tightening of UK BSL a few years ago.

Petitioners fairly stated the following:

“…We petition the government to recognise that it is not the breed of a dog that causes it to attack but rather its upbringing and training…” “…and laws focussed instead on the responsible ownership of dogs regardless of breed…”

The government ignored the reasonable factual statements and ideas and responded with the following:

“We believe that it is important that the existing law is more rigorously enforced rather than introducing new legislation.  The police are now taking forward initiatives to ensure that from now on the law is enforced more effectively.”

“Pitbulls are not suitable animals to be kept as pets.” – UK Govt. 20/03/2009

- George Manning

It is the most important part of dog ownership

The most important decisions in owning a dog happen well before you actually adopt. If you make these decisions wisely you will come out the other end with the perfect dog and a lifelong bond of trust, respect and love. Making the right decisions here can also prevent behavior problems altogether. There are four vital decisions that you should consider deeply when looking to adopt a dog, as they will all affect the relationship you have and the chances of behavior problems occurring. They include, choosing the right energy level, the right breed, the right age and the right temperament for you. I will go into detail on these below.

Do not make the decision on an emotional whim

What energy level best suits you

Step one in choosing which dog is right for you is coming to a clear evaluation of your own energy and lifestyle. Subsequently this will allow you to come to a conclusion as to what energy level in a dog would best suit you. Doing this should come before choosing the breed and age of the dog you wish to adopt. I will explain the potential energy level of a dog and then give some examples as to what kind of lifestyle and energy level you would need yourself to fit that type of dog. Remember, dogs vary in energy levels regardless of breed, the breed of the dog only increases or decreases the likeliness of an energy level, it is absolutely by no means set in stone.

Energy levels

Low – This is the type of dog that enjoys lounging around, receiving massages, affection and relaxing. This type of dog will not be bouncing off the walls, more rubbing against them. Low energy level dogs enjoy a slow paced walk as they do not have unlimited amounts of physical energy. Good walking or slow-jogging partner.

Matching human energy levels:

-Calm most of the time

-Not the type that needs constant stimulation, but some at intervals

-Perhaps an older person

Matching lifestyles:

-Spends most of the day sitting down (maybe at the desk or watching TV)

-When going out, enjoys a slow paced, relaxed walk or short jog

-Perhaps spends a lot of time working

-Has some time for a slow paced walk every day

-Not the type to regularly go on mountain hikes or bicycle journeys

-Prefers relaxing at home

Medium – Medium energy level dogs enjoy going out, but enjoy resting at the end of the day just as much. Most dogs are medium energy. They can travel for a long time, but just don’t match up to the constant fast pace of a higher energy dog. Good hiking or jogging partner.

Matching human energy levels:

-Needs the same amount of stimulation as relaxation

-Both relaxed and somewhat active in mindset

Matching lifestyles:

-Somewhat outgoing

-Relatively active

-Has time every day to dedicate to a walk, but does still work for a proportion of the day

High – These dogs are very “outgoing”. Very much like to be out for long periods of time. They naturally travel at a relatively fast pace. Need a lot of stimulation and activity.

Matching human energy levels:

-Need regular stimulation and challenge

-Focused

Matching lifestyles:

-Outgoing type, perhaps a daily runner or jogger

-Can improvise with increasing travel speed

-Perhaps a partially outdoor related career or a career where the dog can receive stimulation at regular intervals

Very High – These dogs need constant stimulation and activity. They can take many hours of constant travel without complaint. They naturally travel at a fast pace and can run for long periods of time.

Matching human energy levels:

-Almost constantly active

-Fast paced

Matching lifestyles:

-Consistently outdoors and exercising

-Perhaps an entirely outdoor related career

-Preferably able to give the dog work and/or challenging stimulation

Knowing your energy level therefore the energy level of the dog you wish to adopt is vital and is one of the easiest yet most significant ways to prevent behavior problems. Choosing dog with the right energy level will result in a perfect match relationship that cannot go wrong. I recommend going for a dog that is equal to, or less than your own energy.

One of the biggest causes of behavior problems is a mismatch in energies. I have seen on numerous occasions low energy people with high or even very high energy dogs. This leads to a lack of exercise and a build up of frustration and further increase in energy, making it even more difficult for the lower energy person to handle the dog. It is easy to understand why it is important to get a dog with matching energy. I recommend that you get a dog with an equal or slightly lower energy level than yourself.

Choosing the right breed

There are over 350 breeds to choose from in the world. That’s an astounding number for just one sub-species of animal. All the breeds are totally different and unique in the way they were designed and bred physically and psychologically by us. Choosing the right breed is such a vital step, because dogs of certain breeds are very likely to display the traits of that breed. Although this depends on how purely they have been bred and how specific to the breed standards, generally it is wise to assume a breed will display its breed characteristics. I have however placed this part of the article after energy, as every dog has an individual energy. Although dogs of certain breeds are more likely to display their specific breed traits, it is also possible for them not to do so. For example, Labradors are naturally very active as they are hunting/retrieving dogs, but there are certainly many low energy Labradors out there, that don’t even respond to a ball being thrown. Another aspect that throws the idea of “choosing a breed” out the window is the way they are raised. A dog may be conditioned during puppyhood not to display any breed traits at all, or less than normal. This is unnatural, but the potential is still there, and the idea behind it is clear. Nevertheless, choosing the right breed is highly important, whether you are adopting a puppy or rescuing a dog. During puppyhood however it is much easier to decide the level at which you want your dog to practise breed related behaviors. You can later on, but it is much harder.

Striking breed, but often misplaced, the Husky is suited to a cold intense environment and is built for pulling sledges for huge amounts of time daily

Choosing the right breed is very important, and I will use the breed Siberian Husky as an example to describe why. Huskies are physically and psychologically built for highly intense sledge pulling for hours daily in extremely cold conditions such as the arctic. Even after being brought over to the west, Huskies maintain this innate purpose. So Husky owners commit to being able to fulfil these needs, or at least on a similar level. Many people however adopt Huskies almost solely for their striking appearance. This is not respecting their purpose or their needs; it is only respecting the human’s desires. Dogs do not care about appearances, they care about whether their needs are being fulfilled, right now, that’s it. If they are not being fulfilled, they will make it clear to you, this is where behavior problems come in. This is totally relevant to choosing the right breed. Choosing the right breed will result in more of a perfect match between you and your dog For example, a happy go lucky person who wants a dog that retrieves a ball and is social and active, may choose a Labrador. Or perhaps a farmer will go for a Collie, to ensure the dog can efficiently deal with the tasks required on the farm. So, make sure you get a breed that you can relatively fulfil its needs as a breed, and preferably a breed that has traits you desire a dog to have and can therefore fulfil those breed-related needs. The world of breeds is a vast one, so detailed research on breeds is a must for any wannabe dog owner. For example, the internet is a great resource for this. Try “dog breeds” for info and history on all the breeds and “dog breed selector” for quizzes that choose a breed that suits the requirements that you have entered. It is indeed true that one of the secrets of getting and creating the perfect dog for you, is choosing the right breed.

Choosing the right age

Once you know your energy level and the energy level of the dog you want to adopt, you should be thinking about the age of the dog you want to adopt. I divide the ages at which you can adopt a dog into the following.

Puppy, 8-14 weeks of age

Adolescent, 5 months to 2/3 (varies between dog/breed)

Middle age, 2/3 years to 8 years

Older age, 8 years onwards

Dogs differ quite significantly in behavior at each stage and their requirements most certainly do differ from stage to stage. For example, a puppy is ever increasing in energy and will need constant attention and stimulation to be content. Whereas an older dog will need less stimulation, more relaxation, and a lot more vet visits as the age increases. Again, choosing the right age can be a significant preventative of negative behaviors.

Puppy – 0-14 weeks of age

The most critical socialisation period in any dog’s life is 4-12 weeks of age. Studies show for example that dogs deprived of contact with humans at this stage become shy, more wary and more fearful of humans. Similarly other studies show that this is the best time to socialise not only to other dogs and humans, but to any other animals the dog may come into contact with, including cats, rabbits, hamsters and any other animal. There’s nothing stopping any dog, any breed, from learning to associate for example; cats with play, or rabbits with relaxation. Whether it be a Pit Bull, a Chihuahua or a Labrador, at this stage you can create a long term positive (or negative) association with pretty much anything. So, clearly going for a puppy has its advantages. It allows you to mould the perfect dog from day one. This does mean however that you will have to be prepared to do a lot of research on puppy behavior and how to respond to it. The puppy stage is very different from all the other stages as the puppy is dependent on you in the same way it would be in the wild on its disciplined and evolutionarily tuned mother.
Getting a puppy does mean however that you will have to adopt from a breeder. From a behaviorist point of view I could only recommend puppies from a reputable and reliable breeder as this ensures that you are getting a totally healthy puppy (although there are some rescued puppies out there). See ‘adopting a puppy from a breeder’ below.

Adolescent – 5 months-2/3 years

This stage lasts as long as 3 years because of the way we have developed dogs. Humans admire and desire adolescent traits in dogs, so the stage of adolescence has been gradually extended over the years of selective breeding. And although dogs do eventually come out of this stage, many adolescent traits still remain in adult dogs because of this fact.

The adolescent stage is what many call the ‘testing’ stage. It is the stage where dogs will test just how patient and disciplined their human counterparts are, even more so than the puppy stage. During this stage you will notice your dog’s behavior becoming gradually less ‘puppy-like’ and perhaps still increasing in size (depends on breed). If you remain patient and understanding in this stage then you will succeed and have a healthy relationship. Remember dogs do not take things personally, so do not do so either, and stay calm. This is only a brief summary of this stage so I recommend further research.

Middle age – 2/3 years-8 years

This is the stage that dogs will be their most useful. Being mature, fully grown and fit enough to travel the full distance they were intended. In the wild, by this stage the dog would be hunting with the rest of the pack and looking for a mate (but remember they are not adolescent for as long as dogs). If you adopted as a puppy and developed a natural relationship based on trust and respect, then by this stage you and your dog will be fully bonded and ready to take on anything. If you rescued however then nevertheless, this is still the perfect time to create a natural bond and bring out the best in your dog.

Older – 8 years+

At this stage, dogs will often be calmer, more relaxed and sleepier. They also get worn out quicker which means they do not need as much exercise and are more willing to relax and receive affection. So they can be the perfect companion for those who share a similar lifestyle. They are however more likely to develop healthy problems and pose a high vet bill, unfortunately these are inevitabilities that come with old age. They are still yet very rewarding companions for many.  I will not go into detail on old dogs here, but old dog rescue centres believe it or not, do exist. For example, olddoghaven.org or oldies.org.uk

Adopting or Rescuing, the secrets behind getting the perfect dog

When adoption day arrives, you need to know beforehand just what to expect and how to react to the potential new member of your family. Here is some advice and tips on how to do this the best way possible.

Adopting a puppy from a breeder

Once you have determined energy levels, and the breed or breeds that are right for you, you may choose to adopt a puppy. Here are some valuable tips to keep in mind when doing this.

You need to ensure in this process is that you take the time to know what a reliable and reputable breeder is like, and that you can find one. This is important because you need to know the dog is psychologically and physically healthy and normal as it can be. Breeders may advertise in newspapers or on the internet, or better yet by word of mouth. To understand what a good breeder is like you need to know the basics.

A standard breeder must do the following:

• Only sell puppies of 8 weeks or more of age (this is the time the puppies must be with the mother)
• Have all the puppies of the same litter together
• Have high hygiene and safety standards in the areas the puppy may come into contact with, such as regular sanitisation, regular poop disposal etc.
• Of course have good knowledge of the breeding process and be able to explain it

So these are some of the basic standards all breeders must adhere to, however a good breeder will do the following:

• Be able to list off the breeding standards of the breeds they are dealing with and show this in relation to their puppies
• Have a relatively large area for the pups to roam, explore and socialise in (important for the 4-8 weeks socialisation stage before they are sold)
• Be able to handle their pups and other dogs physically and psychologically
• Will usually specialise in one breed
• Understand puppy behavior
• Have their puppies and other dogs under control, content, and free to express natural puppy behaviors such as play and exploring
• Be friendly and more than willing to give advice and information about puppies, the breed and other relevant topics
• Understand the history of dogs and the principles that subsequently implies to breeding and mother to offspring behavior

Once you have found some breeders you wish to visit, you need to know what you are going to do when you get there. When you arrive, you should know what to expect from a good breeder and be observant if the breeder fits all the standard expectations of a reliable and reputable breeder. Soon enough you will get a chance to spend some time with the puppies that you wish to consider for adoption. Remember not to commit before you arrive, but once you have made a clear decision based on your knowledge of puppies and breeders.

Here is some advice on deciding which puppy is right for you.

Before you begin observing the puppies, clear your mind of any emotions that may hasten your decision. This allows you to observe from an instinctual and educated point of view, making a clear decision that will result in the perfect puppy of your dreams. You must then keep a clear idea of the energy level of the dog you wish to adopt, as this will be important when observing.

When observing the puppies, you need to multitask. You should look for both temperament indicators and energy indicators, behaviors that display a ‘likeliness’ to be a certain temperament or energy level when they grow up. For example a particularly high energy dog may be consistently more active and more playful than the others, being distracted much more than the rest. A potentially dominant dog may display more dominant behaviors such as growling, mounting and nipping than the other puppies. Similarly a lower energy dog will be slower in pace to the rest, less active or playful than the rest. A potentially more submissive dog will be the ones that are on the receiving end of rougher play or may roll over in submission frequently. Other traits can also be predicted when observing puppies. Such as aloofness, a potentially aloof dog will not show as much interest in you as the other dogs do. An ideal puppy may be one that does not rush to investigate you, but is genuinely interested and smells you. Furthermore this ideal puppy may not be inclined to growl or nip or jump on you. These are just potential indicators, if you have done your research you will have a good idea of what traits may appear and what they indicate.

I recommend using a puppy temperament test such as Volhard PAT, and the information they give on adopting a puppy. They can be found here:

volhard.com/pages/pat.php – information

workingdogs.com/testing_volhard.htm – the PAT

Adopting a dog from a shelter or rescue organisation

Being a rescue shelter worker myself I can give some inside advice on adopting from a shelter and help advise you to make the best decision possible. When considering rescuing a dog it is important to of course know your energy level, but also have a general knowledge of all the breeds, as you may not have the luxury of choosing a specific breed. There are breed-specific rescue shelters out there so don’t be disheartened, but the general dog rescue shelters are in need of the most help as their numbers are usually more than they can handle. There are a number of shelters in need of people to adopt their dogs, many of which are perfectly healthy and ready to go to a new home. For example, you may use petfinder.com pets911.com or search your local humanesociety.org shelter.

Here are some tips when visiting any kind of rescue shelter or organisation.

• Be aware of what you are projecting before even thinking about visiting a shelter.
• Be calm, wise, educated and instinctual about what you project and the decisions you make during all actions and interactions with or around the dog. Project a disciplined, knowledgeable and strong state of mind. This ensures that your observations are not corrupted by your emotions and subsequently negative body language or voice.
• Keep in mind that the dogs will have a lot more energy than they would naturally, so you need to make your own decisions about what the dog might actually be like in a home environment.
• Do not make direct eye contact with any of the dogs. This will trigger one or more of many emotions such as excitement, aggression, nervousness or fear.
• If you wish to meet a dog that you are interested in, face sideways and crouch down and do not make eye contact, this allows the dog to behave naturally as a posed to unnaturally if you made direct confrontational body language and eye contact (i.e. “hello! You’re a cutey!”). This will give you a feel of the dog. Such as an idea of energy level (I will continue on this), an idea of temperament (i.e. how interested is the dog in you) and will reveal behavior problems such as fearfulness or aggression around or towards humans.
• Once you have a feel for the dogs and have one or more that you are interested in, you can start to evaluate them further.
• Ask for more information from the shelter workers who interact with the dogs often on the particular dogs you are interested in and make your own opinion about this.
• Ask if it would be possible to take the dogs you are interested in out on a walk. Remember most of the dogs will have excess energy and the walk may not be representative of a walk that the dog might have in a home environment with regular walks. During the walk you can see how inclined the dog is to pull or go in front. See how interested the dog is in your actions and commands. Look to see how often the dog is marking during the walk.
• Always be ready to ask for information or advice from shelter workers. However it is best that you be up to scratch on your knowledge of dogs and dog behavior so that you can make a personal and informed decision.
• Shelters are often on a busy time scale and may leave you to it, if not, perhaps request that you have some yourself to observe the dogs so that you can make the right decision.
• Ask if it would be possible to see the dog with other dogs. This is a good indicator of how the dog behaves around other dogs. For example if you are interested in 4 dogs, ask if it is possible to see the dog’s behavior together. If they do not allow this then it is likely the dog has dominant or aggressive tendencies, and is best left to those with experience. If they do however, you can start to evaluate the tendencies of the dogs. Which dog plays roughest? Which dog is most interested in the behaviors of the other dogs? Which dog is most interested in the environment? Which dog is most interested in you? Natural behaviors would be for the dogs to investigate the environment, then move on to smelling each other’s rears, and perhaps initiating play, or simply moving on to continue in another activity. Unnatural behaviors would include one dog fixating on another, one dog mounting another etc.
• Consider fostering a dog or two to find out what the dog is like in all the situations she might be in. This is a great idea as you get to see the dog’s natural behaviors and reaction to all the occurrences of your daily routine.
• Remember to project calmness and only this. Other emotions may negatively influence your decision. Many people for example feel the need to adopt a fearful dog to love and help. But unfortunately the dog ends up back at the shelter as the dog needed a lot more than just love. Remember; do not make the decision on a whim.
• This is only a brief summary of tips when visiting a rescue shelter. Look to find out as much as you can.

Choosing the right dog, to conclude

Choosing the right dog can be a wonderful and rewarding experience that results in the perfect dog, a lifelong bond of trust and respect, and most importantly no behavior problems! So choose wisely, and spend as much time and effort on this part of dog ownership as you can.

Your instincts will guide your knowledge to make the right decision.

This is just the beginning.

Good luck.

George Manning

The walk explained

The walk is the most important time you will spend with your dog and the solution to many behavior problems. It determines most, if not all aspects of your relationship and tests the boundaries of trust and respect between dog and owner. It is the time that defines the dog’s purpose. Just as the dogs need to migrate has been passed down from the wolf, so has the basic principles of this need of migration. The walk fulfils the dogs innate need to migrate every day (see article “What is a Dog?”), and simulates the dogs need to hunt. The common requirement for both of these activities is a leader. There must be a leader who sets the pace and most importantly, makes the decisions. It could be the decision of whether to go for a rabbit that runs out in front, whether to stop or rest, or whether to approach or even attack a stranger. All these decisions are determined by the leader. Another role of the walk is to burn off energy. Every dog has an energy level and subsequently specific exercise requirements. The guide below involves a step by step guide to walking the dog, including how to lead, what pace to set, and what position to be in.

Running with a Purpose - The Wolf

The walk itself

The walk is so detailed yet so simple when practised and I intend this message to come across.

(Note that there may be more than one leader (and more than one dog involved) in the walk).

If you get stuck at any point that the guide explains, contact a professional

The four basic principles

The first basic principle of migration (the walk) is that it is initiated by the leader.

As soon as you start to think about the upcoming walk practise calmness. If you share excitement with your dog at this stage, i.e. “time for walkies!” then you are only fulfilling your own desires to be excited and to see the dog in an excited state. The dog needs to be calm. The reason for this lies in the principle of association. Dogs associate one thing with another primarily at the start and end of an activity. If you share excitement with your dog at the start and end of the walk, the dog will associate the walk with excitement, and you will not be able to control your dog. This isn’t the way of the leader. A leader is calm yet forward. Lower ranking members of the pack may share excitement but the leader is always calm, because he needs to be to keep peace, structure and consequently survival. So to be the leader of the walk you must associate it with calmness. By doing this you are showing the dog you understand what he really needs and that you will make the decisions, so your dog feels safe, calm and happy. This is much like the principle of parenting. You can spoil a child to the point that they scream whenever they don’t get a toy. The leader however will show the child that in life you do not get what you want unless you give something first, through work or charity. This way the child will: one, love the parent more, two, behave – not because the parent said so but because the parent taught the child why it is important to, three, be ever thankful for anything received from the parent and four, learn life lessons in dealing with people and earning a living. This is a healthy relationship built on trust, respect and love, and should be the same as the relationship with your dog. Back to the walk-

To create calmness in your dog you use the same technique you would if you wanted to create excitement, share calmness. For some people I would advise total silence, and recommend this as it allows you to connect with you and your dogs feelings without words, it is not necessary however. For those of you who meditate, surprisingly enough, before the walk is a very good time to meditate.

By this time you haven’t even picked up the leash yet, clearly it is important to calm yourself first.

Look for your dog to be genuinely relaxed. Body language can include sitting or lying down, no stress marks around the eyes or around the mouth, no sudden movements and no panting.

Once you are ready, it is time to open the door.

If your dog associates an open door with going through it upon sight, this is the perfect time to begin practising the principles of association of calmness with the walk. By this time your dog should be calm enough to be in no rush to leave, and will not pull at all (or very little) when the door opens. So attach a leash to the dog and in total calmness, project that you want the dog to wait and stay with you until you decide to go. If done properly this can be done without verbalizations, but it may take time, so be patient. Once this is done, step out the door, ensuring that the dog does not suddenly rush ahead or immediately begin pulling – repeat previous steps if this happens.

If your dog does not associate open doors with automatically going through them then proceed through the door with your dog following you (with or without leash attached).

This is the second important decision you make as the leader. You are following the dogs DNA. As mentioned earlier the first principle is that the leader initiates the walk. The second principle is that the leader sets the direction.

Once out the door the bulk of the walk begins and the third principle begins, the leader sets the pace. Pace depends on energy level, which you should know of your dog (upcoming article on energy levels) – is it to run fast and long? To run in burst then slow down (Sprinting)? To walk slowly…but surely? Whatever it is, set the pace based on your dogs needs, not your own. This is what a leader does. Although a leader is in control, they know that they must meet all the needs of their followers. So in reality the followers are leading the leader (that is, a healthy leader). If your dog needs a long intense run, and you never want to do that, then perhaps this dog is not your match – this is their purpose remember, think about the dog first.

I strongly endorse the use of a bike or roller blades (safety first).

If you have followed the guide as I intended it to be, then your dog will not be pulling on the lead (or you’ve decided you can handle off leash).

The fourth principle is position. The leader does not necessarily set this, the path plays a role too. In the wild, if the pack uses the path regularly, the leader will not be consistently in front, instead the pack will interchange who leads or sometimes not even set a definite leader of the migration. If you have 100% trust and respect with your dog (you will know when you have this) then it is ok if your dog goes a little in front during the walk, your dog will maintain regular eye contact and you will of course still be considered as the leader. Although your dog will probably not go in front anyway, they will likely gravitate to your side, simply because they want to, who wouldn’t? However, too far in front and no eye contact during the walk however are indicators that you do not yet have 100% trust and respect, and should have your dog follow you, next to or behind. Use a leash if necessary until your dog gets the idea that you are leading the walk now, and that you trust and respect them, just as you expect the same in return. Simple techniques include changing direction, so that the dog understands she must follow your lead. Or if your dog begins to pull you can give the leash a light tug, followed by stopping and bringing the dog to your side. However if you have followed the steps to ensure your dog’s needs are met, she will not pull anyway. Excitement levels may change during the walk if you initiate it (ie by increasing the pace etc.). However negative emotions should not be involved in the walk at all, these should be ridden of at step one. Such as, impatience, time limits, frustration, anger, anxiety or nervousness. Replace with, confidence, strength, love, eagerness, enthusiasm, motivation and leadership.

Walk with purpose. With a strong step, hold your head and shoulders high and your dog will respond with the same confidence, head and tail high. A confident wolf pack would have head and tails raised high just like this.
Structure of the walk

The length of the walk should be determined by your dog’s energy levels (subsequently exercise requirements) and mode of transport.

I recommend a very minimum of 40 minutes per day. For example if you have a very low energy dog, two 20 minute walks would meet the minimum. Or for a higher energy dog, a 40 minute burst on the bike would meet the minimum. Spare as much time as you possibly can for the dog, this is the commitment you made from day one. Most importantly, be consistent.

The walk is 60% psychological, 40% physical. Remember this, the dog will know the length of the walk in comparison to the rest of the day, even if you have a very small dog, they still want to be outdoors for long periods of time, even if they’re not running at 20mph like the bigger dogs.

So with the details of walking itself covered, the overall structure can be considered

Retrieving Ball

At least 60% to be migration (constant pace)

15% rest

25% breed related activity / play

These amounts vary, for example a strongly bred and trained hunting dog will require at least 40% to be hunting (breed related activity). However I maintain for most dogs, at least 60% should be a constant migrating pace. I also suggest migration should be the beginning and end of a walk, so that the bulk of the walk is associated with this purposeful activity. At the very least, the very start and end of the walk should include 5% of the migration.

Fitting the walk into daily life – time limits

I mentioned earlier time limits as a negative emotion, this may frustrate some, as in the real world time limits are sometimes constant and necessary. If you are constrained by time limits for walking the dog. Firstly consider setting a specific routine of walking the dog. For example, if you get up early you can walk the dog for an hour before work. Alternatively, consider options such as a dog walker (search for a local dog walker) or other family members to walk the dog. For example, daughter walks the dog in the morning before school, and you walk the dog when you get home from work. Preferably, when getting a dog in the first place, ensure you can easily meet all of her exercise requirements. As a last resort, consider whether perhaps you can actually give this dog the life she really needs? The dog may not be right for you, hopefully not the case. Remember their purpose is to walk.

Serious behavior problems on the walk

Serious problems such as aggression towards other people or dogs on the walk are why professionals exist, so think about contacting a professional first. If you do decide to take on the challenge however then please only do so safely and without risk.

(–I do not recommend use of any techniques or putting yourself in a potentially harmful situation, without prior consultation with a professional dog handler in person as all behaviors vary in severity and all owners vary in dog handling skill and technique interpretation. Third person observation support and advice is very important in dog behavior training.–)
The walk concluded

Do not worry about getting it “right”. In-fact, do not worry at all. Take control. Just move forward. Just walk. Just embrace the simple beauty of walking, because that’s all it really is – walking. Your dog will follow this mind set.

A human walking a dog how they were supposed to be walked is a truly beautiful thing to me. It shows the owner’s pure commitment to fulfilling the dog’s needs. So natural and calming, I find it defines not only the dog’s purpose, but our own.

If you can master the walk, you can do anything.

Walk with confidence and peace, Good Luck.

George Manning

African Wild Dog

So what exactly is what we now call today a “dog”? The dog’s scientific name is Canis lupus familiaris, simply meaning ‘dog that is a wolf that is domestic’. The dog is classed as a subspecies of the Gray Wolf, making it quite literally classifiable as a wolf. So in scientific terms the domestic wolf would be more correct. The word “dog” in relation to the species can be linked both to its genus Canis and its family – Canidae. Canis refers to several species including Jackals, Wolves and Coyotes. Canidae however refers to many species, ranging from the African Wild Dog to the many variations of the Fox. So it would be correct to state that indeed Foxes, Jackals, Wolves and all the other species in the Canidae family are dogs, and the term “dog” to refer simply to the domesticated version of the wolf no longer becomes scientifically entirely correct, more like a nickname.

We humans domesticated wild wolves to create what we now know today as the domestic dog. Although exactly when is not known, it is estimated that it may have occurred between 10-15,000 years ago, when humans were hunter-gatherers. Certain wolves decided to scavenge from human kills when possible. Inevitably some of these wolves tested approaching the humans, the ones that succeeded then lived on and the tamest survived. This eventually led to the humans’ realisation that these wolves’ skills could be honed, to hunt, to protect and to assist. So wolves were gradually accustomed to human contact, human communication and human control. Subsequently the process of selective breeding began. Selective breeding started out as simply killing off the most aggressive and least useful, but has slowly evolved to the careful process that is breeding today, resulting in a wide variety of breeds, most certainly not just for hunting purposes. Without dogs, we would not have become the civilisation we are today, and without us, dogs would not exist, we are interdependent among each other. Although I have summarized this process, it was of course actually a very gradual process that took thousands of years and is a very important process to know.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier

One of the main factors that show dogs are domestic wolves is that the domestic dog shares a genetic structure with the wolf that is over 99.8% similar. This is astounding, in-fact there are not many other species that share such similarities. This means that scientifically speaking, would it be correct to assume that some physical and psychological traits have been passed down from the wolf to the domestic dog? In most ways yes, but in some ways no. For example, Dogs have lost the innate fear of humans that wild wolves have, so they can project submission, dominance or even aggression towards humans. Wolves are not like this at all; innately they are highly fearful of humans (for reasons including prolonged hunting). Dogs have also learnt our communication, how to interpret and respond to our body language and voice. As during the domestication process those animals that could do this efficiently were treasured, kept and bred. Dogs have also learnt to live in a human environment, to feel comfortable indoors. Although dogs have all these new traits and many more since domestication, they have maintained some traits from wolves. I translate these traits into needs and summarise them into three categories; migration, hierarchy and socialisation. These I will go into more detail on in future articles and they will be the basis of explaining all behavior problems. A quick summary: migration is the need to travel/migrate every day; hierarchy is the need to know where they stand in the pack; socialisation is the need to socialise with members of their pack and other packs.

The original trait that formed the basis of these three needs is pack orientation. Pack orientation is a trait most definitely passed down from wolves, the need to be in a pack.

-George Manning-