How to walk a dog, the natural way.
The walk explained
The walk is the most important time you will spend with your dog and the solution to many behavior problems. It determines most, if not all aspects of your relationship and tests the boundaries of trust and respect between dog and owner. It is the time that defines the dog’s purpose. Just as the dogs need to migrate has been passed down from the wolf, so has the basic principles of this need of migration. The walk fulfils the dogs innate need to migrate every day (see article “What is a Dog?”), and simulates the dogs need to hunt. The common requirement for both of these activities is a leader. There must be a leader who sets the pace and most importantly, makes the decisions. It could be the decision of whether to go for a rabbit that runs out in front, whether to stop or rest, or whether to approach or even attack a stranger. All these decisions are determined by the leader. Another role of the walk is to burn off energy. Every dog has an energy level and subsequently specific exercise requirements. The guide below involves a step by step guide to walking the dog, including how to lead, what pace to set, and what position to be in.
Running with a Purpose - The Wolf
The walk itself
The walk is so detailed yet so simple when practised and I intend this message to come across.
(Note that there may be more than one leader (and more than one dog involved) in the walk).
If you get stuck at any point that the guide explains, contact a professional
The four basic principles
The first basic principle of migration (the walk) is that it is initiated by the leader.
As soon as you start to think about the upcoming walk practise calmness. If you share excitement with your dog at this stage, i.e. “time for walkies!” then you are only fulfilling your own desires to be excited and to see the dog in an excited state. The dog needs to be calm. The reason for this lies in the principle of association. Dogs associate one thing with another primarily at the start and end of an activity. If you share excitement with your dog at the start and end of the walk, the dog will associate the walk with excitement, and you will not be able to control your dog. This isn’t the way of the leader. A leader is calm yet forward. Lower ranking members of the pack may share excitement but the leader is always calm, because he needs to be to keep peace, structure and consequently survival. So to be the leader of the walk you must associate it with calmness. By doing this you are showing the dog you understand what he really needs and that you will make the decisions, so your dog feels safe, calm and happy. This is much like the principle of parenting. You can spoil a child to the point that they scream whenever they don’t get a toy. The leader however will show the child that in life you do not get what you want unless you give something first, through work or charity. This way the child will: one, love the parent more, two, behave – not because the parent said so but because the parent taught the child why it is important to, three, be ever thankful for anything received from the parent and four, learn life lessons in dealing with people and earning a living. This is a healthy relationship built on trust, respect and love, and should be the same as the relationship with your dog. Back to the walk-
To create calmness in your dog you use the same technique you would if you wanted to create excitement, share calmness. For some people I would advise total silence, and recommend this as it allows you to connect with you and your dogs feelings without words, it is not necessary however. For those of you who meditate, surprisingly enough, before the walk is a very good time to meditate.
By this time you haven’t even picked up the leash yet, clearly it is important to calm yourself first.
Look for your dog to be genuinely relaxed. Body language can include sitting or lying down, no stress marks around the eyes or around the mouth, no sudden movements and no panting.
Once you are ready, it is time to open the door.
If your dog associates an open door with going through it upon sight, this is the perfect time to begin practising the principles of association of calmness with the walk. By this time your dog should be calm enough to be in no rush to leave, and will not pull at all (or very little) when the door opens. So attach a leash to the dog and in total calmness, project that you want the dog to wait and stay with you until you decide to go. If done properly this can be done without verbalizations, but it may take time, so be patient. Once this is done, step out the door, ensuring that the dog does not suddenly rush ahead or immediately begin pulling – repeat previous steps if this happens.
If your dog does not associate open doors with automatically going through them then proceed through the door with your dog following you (with or without leash attached).
This is the second important decision you make as the leader. You are following the dogs DNA. As mentioned earlier the first principle is that the leader initiates the walk. The second principle is that the leader sets the direction.
Once out the door the bulk of the walk begins and the third principle begins, the leader sets the pace. Pace depends on energy level, which you should know of your dog (upcoming article on energy levels) – is it to run fast and long? To run in burst then slow down (Sprinting)? To walk slowly…but surely? Whatever it is, set the pace based on your dogs needs, not your own. This is what a leader does. Although a leader is in control, they know that they must meet all the needs of their followers. So in reality the followers are leading the leader (that is, a healthy leader). If your dog needs a long intense run, and you never want to do that, then perhaps this dog is not your match – this is their purpose remember, think about the dog first.
I strongly endorse the use of a bike or roller blades (safety first).
If you have followed the guide as I intended it to be, then your dog will not be pulling on the lead (or you’ve decided you can handle off leash).
The fourth principle is position. The leader does not necessarily set this, the path plays a role too. In the wild, if the pack uses the path regularly, the leader will not be consistently in front, instead the pack will interchange who leads or sometimes not even set a definite leader of the migration. If you have 100% trust and respect with your dog (you will know when you have this) then it is ok if your dog goes a little in front during the walk, your dog will maintain regular eye contact and you will of course still be considered as the leader. Although your dog will probably not go in front anyway, they will likely gravitate to your side, simply because they want to, who wouldn’t? However, too far in front and no eye contact during the walk however are indicators that you do not yet have 100% trust and respect, and should have your dog follow you, next to or behind. Use a leash if necessary until your dog gets the idea that you are leading the walk now, and that you trust and respect them, just as you expect the same in return. Simple techniques include changing direction, so that the dog understands she must follow your lead. Or if your dog begins to pull you can give the leash a light tug, followed by stopping and bringing the dog to your side. However if you have followed the steps to ensure your dog’s needs are met, she will not pull anyway. Excitement levels may change during the walk if you initiate it (ie by increasing the pace etc.). However negative emotions should not be involved in the walk at all, these should be ridden of at step one. Such as, impatience, time limits, frustration, anger, anxiety or nervousness. Replace with, confidence, strength, love, eagerness, enthusiasm, motivation and leadership.
Walk with purpose. With a strong step, hold your head and shoulders high and your dog will respond with the same confidence, head and tail high. A confident wolf pack would have head and tails raised high just like this.
Structure of the walk
The length of the walk should be determined by your dog’s energy levels (subsequently exercise requirements) and mode of transport.
I recommend a very minimum of 40 minutes per day. For example if you have a very low energy dog, two 20 minute walks would meet the minimum. Or for a higher energy dog, a 40 minute burst on the bike would meet the minimum. Spare as much time as you possibly can for the dog, this is the commitment you made from day one. Most importantly, be consistent.
The walk is 60% psychological, 40% physical. Remember this, the dog will know the length of the walk in comparison to the rest of the day, even if you have a very small dog, they still want to be outdoors for long periods of time, even if they’re not running at 20mph like the bigger dogs.
So with the details of walking itself covered, the overall structure can be considered
Retrieving Ball
At least 60% to be migration (constant pace)
15% rest
25% breed related activity / play
These amounts vary, for example a strongly bred and trained hunting dog will require at least 40% to be hunting (breed related activity). However I maintain for most dogs, at least 60% should be a constant migrating pace. I also suggest migration should be the beginning and end of a walk, so that the bulk of the walk is associated with this purposeful activity. At the very least, the very start and end of the walk should include 5% of the migration.
Fitting the walk into daily life – time limits
I mentioned earlier time limits as a negative emotion, this may frustrate some, as in the real world time limits are sometimes constant and necessary. If you are constrained by time limits for walking the dog. Firstly consider setting a specific routine of walking the dog. For example, if you get up early you can walk the dog for an hour before work. Alternatively, consider options such as a dog walker (search for a local dog walker) or other family members to walk the dog. For example, daughter walks the dog in the morning before school, and you walk the dog when you get home from work. Preferably, when getting a dog in the first place, ensure you can easily meet all of her exercise requirements. As a last resort, consider whether perhaps you can actually give this dog the life she really needs? The dog may not be right for you, hopefully not the case. Remember their purpose is to walk.
Serious behavior problems on the walk
Serious problems such as aggression towards other people or dogs on the walk are why professionals exist, so think about contacting a professional first. If you do decide to take on the challenge however then please only do so safely and without risk.
(–I do not recommend use of any techniques or putting yourself in a potentially harmful situation, without prior consultation with a professional dog handler in person as all behaviors vary in severity and all owners vary in dog handling skill and technique interpretation. Third person observation support and advice is very important in dog behavior training.–)
The walk concluded
Do not worry about getting it “right”. In-fact, do not worry at all. Take control. Just move forward. Just walk. Just embrace the simple beauty of walking, because that’s all it really is – walking. Your dog will follow this mind set.
A human walking a dog how they were supposed to be walked is a truly beautiful thing to me. It shows the owner’s pure commitment to fulfilling the dog’s needs. So natural and calming, I find it defines not only the dog’s purpose, but our own.
If you can master the walk, you can do anything.
Walk with confidence and peace, Good Luck.
George Manning