George Manning – Dog Behaviorist

Fear in dogs

Fear was actually one of the most prominent features in dogs long ago. Before domestic dogs came about, there was only the wolf (see article “What is a Dog”). Wolves had a level of innate fear of humans due to prolonged competition for resources that involved us often hunting and killing wolves, or at the least scaring them off from campsites and kill-sites. So fear is not a foreign to dogs, for many years up until dogs began to fully rely on us for survival, fear was an inborn and important trait.

So, how did we manage to create a fearless canine companion out of a wild and fearful wolf? Food: food was the determining factor in pushing the wolves over the edge to actually eventually approaching humans which led to their domestication. Konrad Lorenz, the famous animal psychologist said “To gain a desired prey, a dog or wolf will do things that, in other contexts, they would shy away from”. This was true for the wolf, when it chose to push the boundaries in scavenging our kills, and is still true today when we consider dealing with fear in dogs.

Domestic dogs were created on the very foundation that they overcame their fear of us through the potential of food, so we can use this very real concept to help dogs overcome fear issues today. Our recent ancestors helped to create the dog in the first step of allowing them to scavenge from our kills. In this interaction the wolf is fearful and very closely observing the human and the human’s possible intentions (you can see where this went to creating a new species that could understand human communication). Furthermore in this interaction the human is not too worried over what the wolf is doing. If the human was worried about the wolf’s presence on the kill he would have scared her off thus making the fear worse, but this would not have happened, else we would not have dogs today. So the concepts that we can transfer are, the presence of food, and the lack of interest towards the animal. This, in today’s world, creates curiosity in a fearful dog, just like it likely did with wolves back a few thousand years ago. The process of overcoming the fear is also gradual, just as it was with the wolf. So we can loosely base helping fearful dogs today based on some of these facts and assumptions. Of course there are different types of fear, specific and generalized fear. Specific fear is fear towards something specific (of course) such as people, dogs, the hose or cars etc. Specific fears are motivated by specific causes, such as being hit by a car, therefore becoming fearful towards the car. Generalized fear is a general fear of most things, mainly movement, people, noise, everything, really.

Conclusions drawn and how to help a dog overcome fear of people or strangers

So, a lack of interest, no direct eye contact, no direct confrontation, a relaxed, confident posture and mental state, and the presence of (preferably a strong smelling meat-based) food are all key to tapping into the dog’s natural curiosity functions. This first step may take time, the aim is to have the dog approach you, and eventually get close enough to consider eating that food (in your hand or pouch). This is starting to sound like a dating article, but the aim is to drive the dog “crazy” for the food, the principle of classical conditioning means that this positive and enjoyably challenging experience becomes associated with your presence, and guess what? Fear isn’t a part of that experience.

Try to hold back actually giving the treat, allow nibbles to keep the dog interested (so she knows what she’s actually working for) but save the real treat until you are sure the mind is relaxed, shown in part by a tail that is relaxed (down is ok, as long as it isn’t tense/tucked) and relaxed eyes (not wide open) and few creases around the eyes (these creases mean the dog is tensing her face). It’s really a matter of controlling your mental state and quietly observing the dog’s actions and acting appropriately to those actions, there is no specific way of doing this that can be laid out into detailed and specific steps, rather you must take upon the small amount of information and learn as you go. If you are in the slightest bit aggressive, frustrated, tense, feeling sorry, in a rush, nervous, or worried about getting it wrong, the dog will pick up on this and likely show little interest in you. The key to attracting a fearful dog is to be confident with a lack of interest but a MOTIVE for the approach, kind of like the attractive girl at school, she’s confident, shows a lack of interest in the guys but leaves the guys with a motive, her looks.

With fear, generally, the only real way of overcoming it in dogs (and humans for that matter) is to be exposed to what creates the fear. A dog can only overcome its fear of humans if humans are present. If a dog that feared humans was exposed to many humans on a daily basis, eventually she would realise they are not harming her, thus the negative association is removed. This simple concept is the basis of “exposure therapy” used mainly on humans to overcome phobias and fears. Along with exposure to the item or object of fear, positivity can be introduced when the mind begins to relax so an instant positive association between this relaxation (replacing the fear) and the once item of fear is created. Almost all people have a fear of public speaking for example, the only difference between these people and the people that do not have a fear is that the people who do not faced that fear enough to overcome and enjoy it.

This was the best picture I could find… Notice the dilated pupils, wide open eyes, crease in between the eyes (the ‘cautious’ line down the middle of the head), creases around the eyes, wet nose (increased moisture has something to do with increased receptivity or trying to cool down), body orientation is moving away from the human with only the head facing, right paw is about to be lifted, tail is tucked, increased muscle outline (indicates tension), ears forward, closed mouth, back left leg seems to be attempting to depress, a sign of wanting to be closer to the ground / making itself smaller, there are many other things going on but ALL these are signs of flight/fear (in this case, but not always so with all of them)

Another way of helping a dog to overcome fear is often just the presence of others dogs. We are no match for dogs in knowing what to do when faced with a behavior problem in another dog. Ontop of this, dogs are happiest and feel most natural and free when among their own species. With many fearful dogs, the simple presence of another dog, especially a calm and experienced dog, will immediately eradicate or reduce the fear at that time, allowing for it to gradually disappear.

Even fearful dogs have something that they absolutely love (besides food I mean here). A dog with a strong prey drive will almost always be brought out of the fearful state in order to focus on the prey. A dog that loves to run will brought out of the fearful state whilst running. These examples both play on the fact that dogs can only focus on one thing at once! It is not simply distracting them however, inadvertently everything in the surroundings becomes associated with not feeling fearful at that time, for whatever reason. So tap into what your dog loves, one way of doing this can be through researching the breed.

There are many other hints and tips on helping fearful dogs but as always, contacting a behaviorist is the best option if you are dealing with a fearful dog, they will understand and teach you the dos and don’ts when it comes to helping and rehabilitating that dog.

How to Choose the Perfect Dog for You

It is the most important part of dog ownership

The most important decisions in owning a dog happen well before you actually adopt. If you make these decisions wisely you will come out the other end with the perfect dog and a lifelong bond of trust, respect and love. Making the right decisions here can also prevent behavior problems altogether. There are four vital decisions that you should consider deeply when looking to adopt a dog, as they will all affect the relationship you have and the chances of behavior problems occurring. They include, choosing the right energy level, the right breed, the right age and the right temperament for you. I will go into detail on these below.

What energy level best suits you

Step one in choosing which dog is right for you is coming to a clear evaluation of your own energy and lifestyle. Subsequently this will allow you to come to a conclusion as to what energy level in a dog would best suit you. Doing this should come before choosing the breed and age of the dog you wish to adopt. I will explain the potential energy level of a dog and then give some examples as to what kind of lifestyle and energy level you would need yourself to fit that type of dog. Remember, dogs vary in energy levels regardless of breed, the breed of the dog only increases or decreases the likeliness of an energy level, it is absolutely by no means set in stone.

Energy levels

Low – This is the type of dog that enjoys lounging around, receiving massages, affection and relaxing. This type of dog will not be bouncing off the walls, more rubbing against them. Low energy level dogs enjoy a slow paced walk as they do not have unlimited amounts of physical energy. Good walking or slow-jogging partner.

Matching human energy levels:

-Calm most of the time

-Not the type that needs constant stimulation, but some at intervals

-Perhaps an older person

Matching lifestyles:

-Spends most of the day sitting down (maybe at the desk or watching TV)

-When going out, enjoys a slow paced, relaxed walk or short jog

-Perhaps spends a lot of time working

-Has some time for a slow paced walk every day

-Not the type to regularly go on mountain hikes or bicycle journeys

-Prefers relaxing at home

Medium – Medium energy level dogs enjoy going out, but enjoy resting at the end of the day just as much. Most dogs are medium energy. They can travel for a long time, but just don’t match up to the constant fast pace of a higher energy dog. Good hiking or jogging partner.

Matching human energy levels:

-Needs the same amount of stimulation as relaxation

-Both relaxed and somewhat active in mindset

Matching lifestyles:

-Somewhat outgoing

-Relatively active

-Has time every day to dedicate to a walk, but does still work for a proportion of the day

High – These dogs are very “outgoing”. Very much like to be out for long periods of time. They naturally travel at a relatively fast pace. Need a lot of stimulation and activity.

Matching human energy levels:

-Need regular stimulation and challenge

-Focused

Matching lifestyles:

-Outgoing type, perhaps a daily runner or jogger

-Can improvise with increasing travel speed

-Perhaps a partially outdoor related career or a career where the dog can receive stimulation at regular intervals

Very High – These dogs need constant stimulation and activity. They can take many hours of constant travel without complaint. They naturally travel at a fast pace and can run for long periods of time.

Matching human energy levels:

-Almost constantly active

-Fast paced

Matching lifestyles:

-Consistently outdoors and exercising

-Perhaps an entirely outdoor related career

-Preferably able to give the dog work and/or challenging stimulation

Knowing your energy level therefore the energy level of the dog you wish to adopt is vital and is one of the easiest yet most significant ways to prevent behavior problems. Choosing dog with the right energy level will result in a perfect match relationship that cannot go wrong. I recommend going for a dog that is equal to, or less than your own energy.

One of the biggest causes of behavior problems is a mismatch in energies. I have seen on numerous occasions low energy people with high or even very high energy dogs. This leads to a lack of exercise and a build up of frustration and further increase in energy, making it even more difficult for the lower energy person to handle the dog. It is easy to understand why it is important to get a dog with matching energy. I recommend that you get a dog with an equal or slightly lower energy level than yourself.

Choosing the right breed

There are over 350 breeds to choose from in the world. That’s an astounding number for just one sub-species of animal. All the breeds are totally different and unique in the way they were designed and bred physically and psychologically by us. Choosing the right breed is such a vital step, because dogs of certain breeds are very likely to display the traits of that breed. Although this depends on how purely they have been bred and how specific to the breed standards, generally it is wise to assume a breed will display its breed characteristics. I have however placed this part of the article after energy, as every dog has an individual energy. Although dogs of certain breeds are more likely to display their specific breed traits, it is also possible for them not to do so. For example, Labradors are naturally very active as they are hunting/retrieving dogs, but there are certainly many low energy Labradors out there, that don’t even respond to a ball being thrown. Another aspect that throws the idea of “choosing a breed” out the window is the way they are raised. A dog may be conditioned during puppyhood not to display any breed traits at all, or less than normal. This is unnatural, but the potential is still there, and the idea behind it is clear. Nevertheless, choosing the right breed is highly important, whether you are adopting a puppy or rescuing a dog. During puppyhood however it is much easier to decide the level at which you want your dog to practise breed related behaviors. You can later on, but it is much harder.

Choosing the right breed is very important, and I will use the breed Siberian Husky as an example to describe why. Huskies are physically and psychologically built for highly intense sledge pulling for hours daily in extremely cold conditions such as the arctic. Even after being brought over to the west, Huskies maintain this innate purpose. So Husky owners commit to being able to fulfil these needs, or at least on a similar level. Many people however adopt Huskies almost solely for their striking appearance. This is not respecting their purpose or their needs; it is only respecting the human’s desires. Dogs do not care about appearances, they care about whether their needs are being fulfilled, right now, that’s it. If they are not being fulfilled, they will make it clear to you, this is where behavior problems come in. This is totally relevant to choosing the right breed. Choosing the right breed will result in more of a perfect match between you and your dog For example, a happy go lucky person who wants a dog that retrieves a ball and is social and active, may choose a Labrador. Or perhaps a farmer will go for a Collie, to ensure the dog can efficiently deal with the tasks required on the farm. So, make sure you get a breed that you can relatively fulfil its needs as a breed, and preferably a breed that has traits you desire a dog to have and can therefore fulfil those breed-related needs. The world of breeds is a vast one, so detailed research on breeds is a must for any wannabe dog owner. For example, the internet is a great resource for this. Try “dog breeds” for info and history on all the breeds and “dog breed selector” for quizzes that choose a breed that suits the requirements that you have entered. It is indeed true that one of the secrets of getting and creating the perfect dog for you, is choosing the right breed.

Choosing the right age

Once you know your energy level and the energy level of the dog you want to adopt, you should be thinking about the age of the dog you want to adopt. I divide the ages at which you can adopt a dog into the following.

Puppy, 8-14 weeks of age

Adolescent, 5 months to 2/3 (varies between dog/breed)

Middle age, 2/3 years to 8 years

Older age, 8 years onwards

Dogs differ quite significantly in behavior at each stage and their requirements most certainly do differ from stage to stage. For example, a puppy is ever increasing in energy and will need constant attention and stimulation to be content. Whereas an older dog will need less stimulation, more relaxation, and a lot more vet visits as the age increases. Again, choosing the right age can be a significant preventative of negative behaviors.

Puppy – 0-14 weeks of age

The most critical socialisation period in any dog’s life is 4-12 weeks of age. Studies show for example that dogs deprived of contact with humans at this stage become shy, more wary and more fearful of humans. Similarly other studies show that this is the best time to socialise not only to other dogs and humans, but to any other animals the dog may come into contact with, including cats, rabbits, hamsters and any other animal. There’s nothing stopping any dog, any breed, from learning to associate for example; cats with play, or rabbits with relaxation. Whether it be a Pit Bull, a Chihuahua or a Labrador, at this stage you can create a long term positive (or negative) association with pretty much anything. So, clearly going for a puppy has its advantages. It allows you to mould the perfect dog from day one. This does mean however that you will have to be prepared to do a lot of research on puppy behavior and how to respond to it. The puppy stage is very different from all the other stages as the puppy is dependent on you in the same way it would be in the wild on its disciplined and evolutionarily tuned mother.
Getting a puppy does mean however that you will have to adopt from a breeder. From a behaviorist point of view I could only recommend puppies from a reputable and reliable breeder as this ensures that you are getting a totally healthy puppy (although there are some rescued puppies out there). See ‘adopting a puppy from a breeder’ below.

Adolescent – 5 months-2/3 years

This stage lasts as long as 3 years because of the way we have developed dogs. Humans admire and desire adolescent traits in dogs, so the stage of adolescence has been gradually extended over the years of selective breeding. And although dogs do eventually come out of this stage, many adolescent traits still remain in adult dogs because of this fact.

The adolescent stage is what many call the ‘testing’ stage. It is the stage where dogs will test just how patient and disciplined their human counterparts are, even more so than the puppy stage. During this stage you will notice your dog’s behavior becoming gradually less ‘puppy-like’ and perhaps still increasing in size (depends on breed). If you remain patient and understanding in this stage then you will succeed and have a healthy relationship. Remember dogs do not take things personally, so do not do so either, and stay calm. This is only a brief summary of this stage so I recommend further research.

Middle age – 2/3 years-8 years

This is the stage that dogs will be their most useful. Being mature, fully grown and fit enough to travel the full distance they were intended. In the wild, by this stage the dog would be hunting with the rest of the pack and looking for a mate (but remember they are not adolescent for as long as dogs). If you adopted as a puppy and developed a natural relationship based on trust and respect, then by this stage you and your dog will be fully bonded and ready to take on anything. If you rescued however then nevertheless, this is still the perfect time to create a natural bond and bring out the best in your dog.

Older – 8 years+

At this stage, dogs will often be calmer, more relaxed and sleepier. They also get worn out quicker which means they do not need as much exercise and are more willing to relax and receive affection. So they can be the perfect companion for those who share a similar lifestyle. They are however more likely to develop healthy problems and pose a high vet bill, unfortunately these are inevitabilities that come with old age. They are still yet very rewarding companions for many.  I will not go into detail on old dogs here, but old dog rescue centres believe it or not, do exist. For example, olddoghaven.org or oldies.org.uk

Adopting or Rescuing, the secrets behind getting the perfect dog

When adoption day arrives, you need to know beforehand just what to expect and how to react to the potential new member of your family. Here is some advice and tips on how to do this the best way possible.

Adopting a puppy from a breeder

Once you have determined energy levels, and the breed or breeds that are right for you, you may choose to adopt a puppy. Here are some valuable tips to keep in mind when doing this.

You need to ensure in this process is that you take the time to know what a reliable and reputable breeder is like, and that you can find one. This is important because you need to know the dog is psychologically and physically healthy and normal as it can be. Breeders may advertise in newspapers or on the internet, or better yet by word of mouth. To understand what a good breeder is like you need to know the basics.

A standard breeder must do the following:

• Only sell puppies of 8 weeks or more of age (this is the time the puppies must be with the mother)
• Have all the puppies of the same litter together
• Have high hygiene and safety standards in the areas the puppy may come into contact with, such as regular sanitisation, regular poop disposal etc.
• Of course have good knowledge of the breeding process and be able to explain it

So these are some of the basic standards all breeders must adhere to, however a good breeder will do the following:

• Be able to list off the breeding standards of the breeds they are dealing with and show this in relation to their puppies
• Have a relatively large area for the pups to roam, explore and socialise in (important for the 4-8 weeks socialisation stage before they are sold)
• Be able to handle their pups and other dogs physically and psychologically
• Will usually specialise in one breed
• Understand puppy behavior
• Have their puppies and other dogs under control, content, and free to express natural puppy behaviors such as play and exploring
• Be friendly and more than willing to give advice and information about puppies, the breed and other relevant topics
• Understand the history of dogs and the principles that subsequently implies to breeding and mother to offspring behavior

Once you have found some breeders you wish to visit, you need to know what you are going to do when you get there. When you arrive, you should know what to expect from a good breeder and be observant if the breeder fits all the standard expectations of a reliable and reputable breeder. Soon enough you will get a chance to spend some time with the puppies that you wish to consider for adoption. Remember not to commit before you arrive, but once you have made a clear decision based on your knowledge of puppies and breeders.

Here is some advice on deciding which puppy is right for you.

Before you begin observing the puppies, clear your mind of any emotions that may hasten your decision. This allows you to observe from an instinctual and educated point of view, making a clear decision that will result in the perfect puppy of your dreams. You must then keep a clear idea of the energy level of the dog you wish to adopt, as this will be important when observing.

When observing the puppies, you need to multitask. You should look for both temperament indicators and energy indicators, behaviors that display a ‘likeliness’ to be a certain temperament or energy level when they grow up. For example a particularly high energy dog may be consistently more active and more playful than the others, being distracted much more than the rest. A potentially dominant dog may display more dominant behaviors such as growling, mounting and nipping than the other puppies. Similarly a lower energy dog will be slower in pace to the rest, less active or playful than the rest. A potentially more submissive dog will be the ones that are on the receiving end of rougher play or may roll over in submission frequently. Other traits can also be predicted when observing puppies. Such as aloofness, a potentially aloof dog will not show as much interest in you as the other dogs do. An ideal puppy may be one that does not rush to investigate you, but is genuinely interested and smells you. Furthermore this ideal puppy may not be inclined to growl or nip or jump on you. These are just potential indicators, if you have done your research you will have a good idea of what traits may appear and what they indicate.

I recommend using a puppy temperament test such as Volhard PAT, and the information they give on adopting a puppy. They can be found here:

volhard.com/pages/pat.php – information

workingdogs.com/testing_volhard.htm – the PAT

Adopting a dog from a shelter or rescue organisation

Being a rescue shelter worker myself I can give some inside advice on adopting from a shelter and help advise you to make the best decision possible. When considering rescuing a dog it is important to of course know your energy level, but also have a general knowledge of all the breeds, as you may not have the luxury of choosing a specific breed. There are breed-specific rescue shelters out there so don’t be disheartened, but the general dog rescue shelters are in need of the most help as their numbers are usually more than they can handle. There are a number of shelters in need of people to adopt their dogs, many of which are perfectly healthy and ready to go to a new home. For example, you may use petfinder.com pets911.com or search your local humanesociety.org shelter.

Here are some tips when visiting any kind of rescue shelter or organisation.

• Be aware of what you are projecting before even thinking about visiting a shelter.
• Be calm, wise, educated and instinctual about what you project and the decisions you make during all actions and interactions with or around the dog. Project a disciplined, knowledgeable and strong state of mind. This ensures that your observations are not corrupted by your emotions and subsequently negative body language or voice.
• Keep in mind that the dogs will have a lot more energy than they would naturally, so you need to make your own decisions about what the dog might actually be like in a home environment.
• Do not make direct eye contact with any of the dogs. This will trigger one or more of many emotions such as excitement, aggression, nervousness or fear.
• If you wish to meet a dog that you are interested in, face sideways and crouch down and do not make eye contact, this allows the dog to behave naturally as a posed to unnaturally if you made direct confrontational body language and eye contact (i.e. “hello! You’re a cutey!”). This will give you a feel of the dog. Such as an idea of energy level (I will continue on this), an idea of temperament (i.e. how interested is the dog in you) and will reveal behavior problems such as fearfulness or aggression around or towards humans.
• Once you have a feel for the dogs and have one or more that you are interested in, you can start to evaluate them further.
• Ask for more information from the shelter workers who interact with the dogs often on the particular dogs you are interested in and make your own opinion about this.
• Ask if it would be possible to take the dogs you are interested in out on a walk. Remember most of the dogs will have excess energy and the walk may not be representative of a walk that the dog might have in a home environment with regular walks. During the walk you can see how inclined the dog is to pull or go in front. See how interested the dog is in your actions and commands. Look to see how often the dog is marking during the walk.
• Always be ready to ask for information or advice from shelter workers. However it is best that you be up to scratch on your knowledge of dogs and dog behavior so that you can make a personal and informed decision.
• Shelters are often on a busy time scale and may leave you to it, if not, perhaps request that you have some yourself to observe the dogs so that you can make the right decision.
• Ask if it would be possible to see the dog with other dogs. This is a good indicator of how the dog behaves around other dogs. For example if you are interested in 4 dogs, ask if it is possible to see the dog’s behavior together. If they do not allow this then it is likely the dog has dominant or aggressive tendencies, and is best left to those with experience. If they do however, you can start to evaluate the tendencies of the dogs. Which dog plays roughest? Which dog is most interested in the behaviors of the other dogs? Which dog is most interested in the environment? Which dog is most interested in you? Natural behaviors would be for the dogs to investigate the environment, then move on to smelling each other’s rears, and perhaps initiating play, or simply moving on to continue in another activity. Unnatural behaviors would include one dog fixating on another, one dog mounting another etc.
• Consider fostering a dog or two to find out what the dog is like in all the situations she might be in. This is a great idea as you get to see the dog’s natural behaviors and reaction to all the occurrences of your daily routine.
• Remember to project calmness and only this. Other emotions may negatively influence your decision. Many people for example feel the need to adopt a fearful dog to love and help. But unfortunately the dog ends up back at the shelter as the dog needed a lot more than just love. Remember; do not make the decision on a whim.
• This is only a brief summary of tips when visiting a rescue shelter. Look to find out as much as you can.

Choosing the right dog, to conclude

Choosing the right dog can be a wonderful and rewarding experience that results in the perfect dog, a lifelong bond of trust and respect, and most importantly no behavior problems! So choose wisely, and spend as much time and effort on this part of dog ownership as you can.

Your instincts will guide your knowledge to make the right decision.

This is just the beginning.

Good luck.

George Manning

How to walk a dog, the natural way.

The walk explained

The walk is the most important time you will spend with your dog and the solution to many behavior problems. It determines most, if not all aspects of your relationship and tests the boundaries of trust and respect between dog and owner. It is the time that defines the dog’s purpose. Just as the dogs need to migrate has been passed down from the wolf, so has the basic principles of this need of migration. The walk fulfils the dogs innate need to migrate every day (see article “What is a Dog?”), and simulates the dogs need to hunt. The common requirement for both of these activities is a leader. There must be a leader who sets the pace and most importantly, makes the decisions. It could be the decision of whether to go for a rabbit that runs out in front, whether to stop or rest, or whether to approach or even attack a stranger. All these decisions are determined by the leader. Another role of the walk is to burn off energy. Every dog has an energy level and subsequently specific exercise requirements. The guide below involves a step by step guide to walking the dog, including how to lead, what pace to set, and what position to be in.

The walk itself

The walk is so detailed yet so simple when practised and I intend this message to come across.

(Note that there may be more than one leader (and more than one dog involved) in the walk).

If you get stuck at any point that the guide explains, contact a professional

The four basic principles

The first basic principle of migration (the walk) is that it is initiated by the leader.

As soon as you start to think about the upcoming walk practise calmness. If you share excitement with your dog at this stage, i.e. “time for walkies!” then you are only fulfilling your own desires to be excited and to see the dog in an excited state. The dog needs to be calm. The reason for this lies in the principle of association. Dogs associate one thing with another primarily at the start and end of an activity. If you share excitement with your dog at the start and end of the walk, the dog will associate the walk with excitement, and you will not be able to control your dog. This isn’t the way of the leader. A leader is calm yet forward. Lower ranking members of the pack may share excitement but the leader is always calm, because he needs to be to keep peace, structure and consequently survival. So to be the leader of the walk you must associate it with calmness. By doing this you are showing the dog you understand what he really needs and that you will make the decisions, so your dog feels safe, calm and happy. This is much like the principle of parenting. You can spoil a child to the point that they scream whenever they don’t get a toy. The leader however will show the child that in life you do not get what you want unless you give something first, through work or charity. This way the child will: one, love the parent more, two, behave – not because the parent said so but because the parent taught the child why it is important to, three, be ever thankful for anything received from the parent and four, learn life lessons in dealing with people and earning a living. This is a healthy relationship built on trust, respect and love, and should be the same as the relationship with your dog. Back to the walk-

To create calmness in your dog you use the same technique you would if you wanted to create excitement, share calmness. For some people I would advise total silence, and recommend this as it allows you to connect with you and your dogs feelings without words, it is not necessary however. For those of you who meditate, surprisingly enough, before the walk is a very good time to meditate.

By this time you haven’t even picked up the leash yet, clearly it is important to calm yourself first.

Look for your dog to be genuinely relaxed. Body language can include sitting or lying down, no stress marks around the eyes or around the mouth, no sudden movements and no panting.

Once you are ready, it is time to open the door.

If your dog associates an open door with going through it upon sight, this is the perfect time to begin practising the principles of association of calmness with the walk. By this time your dog should be calm enough to be in no rush to leave, and will not pull at all (or very little) when the door opens. So attach a leash to the dog and in total calmness, project that you want the dog to wait and stay with you until you decide to go. If done properly this can be done without verbalizations, but it may take time, so be patient. Once this is done, step out the door, ensuring that the dog does not suddenly rush ahead or immediately begin pulling – repeat previous steps if this happens.

If your dog does not associate open doors with automatically going through them then proceed through the door with your dog following you (with or without leash attached).

This is the second important decision you make as the leader. You are following the dogs DNA. As mentioned earlier the first principle is that the leader initiates the walk. The second principle is that the leader sets the direction.

Once out the door the bulk of the walk begins and the third principle begins, the leader sets the pace. Pace depends on energy level, which you should know of your dog (upcoming article on energy levels) – is it to run fast and long? To run in burst then slow down (Sprinting)? To walk slowly…but surely? Whatever it is, set the pace based on your dogs needs, not your own. This is what a leader does. Although a leader is in control, they know that they must meet all the needs of their followers. So in reality the followers are leading the leader (that is, a healthy leader). If your dog needs a long intense run, and you never want to do that, then perhaps this dog is not your match – this is their purpose remember, think about the dog first.

I strongly endorse the use of a bike or roller blades (safety first).

If you have followed the guide as I intended it to be, then your dog will not be pulling on the lead (or you’ve decided you can handle off leash).

The fourth principle is position. The leader does not necessarily set this, the path plays a role too. In the wild, if the pack uses the path regularly, the leader will not be consistently in front, instead the pack will interchange who leads or sometimes not even set a definite leader of the migration. If you have 100% trust and respect with your dog (you will know when you have this) then it is ok if your dog goes a little in front during the walk, your dog will maintain regular eye contact and you will of course still be considered as the leader. Although your dog will probably not go in front anyway, they will likely gravitate to your side, simply because they want to, who wouldn’t? However, too far in front and no eye contact during the walk however are indicators that you do not yet have 100% trust and respect, and should have your dog follow you, next to or behind. Use a leash if necessary until your dog gets the idea that you are leading the walk now, and that you trust and respect them, just as you expect the same in return. Simple techniques include changing direction, so that the dog understands she must follow your lead. Or if your dog begins to pull you can give the leash a light tug, followed by stopping and bringing the dog to your side. However if you have followed the steps to ensure your dog’s needs are met, she will not pull anyway. Excitement levels may change during the walk if you initiate it (ie by increasing the pace etc.). However negative emotions should not be involved in the walk at all, these should be ridden of at step one. Such as, impatience, time limits, frustration, anger, anxiety or nervousness. Replace with, confidence, strength, love, eagerness, enthusiasm, motivation and leadership.

Walk with purpose. With a strong step, hold your head and shoulders high and your dog will respond with the same confidence, head and tail high. A confident wolf pack would have head and tails raised high just like this.
Structure of the walk

The length of the walk should be determined by your dog’s energy levels (subsequently exercise requirements) and mode of transport.

I recommend a very minimum of 40 minutes per day. For example if you have a very low energy dog, two 20 minute walks would meet the minimum. Or for a higher energy dog, a 40 minute burst on the bike would meet the minimum. Spare as much time as you possibly can for the dog, this is the commitment you made from day one. Most importantly, be consistent.

The walk is 60% psychological, 40% physical. Remember this, the dog will know the length of the walk in comparison to the rest of the day, even if you have a very small dog, they still want to be outdoors for long periods of time, even if they’re not running at 20mph like the bigger dogs.

So with the details of walking itself covered, the overall structure can be considered

At least 60% to be migration (constant pace)

15% rest

25% breed related activity / play

These amounts vary, for example a strongly bred and trained hunting dog will require at least 40% to be hunting (breed related activity). However I maintain for most dogs, at least 60% should be a constant migrating pace. I also suggest migration should be the beginning and end of a walk, so that the bulk of the walk is associated with this purposeful activity. At the very least, the very start and end of the walk should include 5% of the migration.

Fitting the walk into daily life – time limits

I mentioned earlier time limits as a negative emotion, this may frustrate some, as in the real world time limits are sometimes constant and necessary. If you are constrained by time limits for walking the dog. Firstly consider setting a specific routine of walking the dog. For example, if you get up early you can walk the dog for an hour before work. Alternatively, consider options such as a dog walker (search for a local dog walker) or other family members to walk the dog. For example, daughter walks the dog in the morning before school, and you walk the dog when you get home from work. Preferably, when getting a dog in the first place, ensure you can easily meet all of her exercise requirements. As a last resort, consider whether perhaps you can actually give this dog the life she really needs? The dog may not be right for you, hopefully not the case. Remember their purpose is to walk.

Serious behavior problems on the walk

Serious problems such as aggression towards other people or dogs on the walk are why professionals exist, so think about contacting a professional first. If you do decide to take on the challenge however then please only do so safely and without risk.

(–I do not recommend use of any techniques or putting yourself in a potentially harmful situation, without prior consultation with a professional dog handler in person as all behaviors vary in severity and all owners vary in dog handling skill and technique interpretation. Third person observation support and advice is very important in dog behavior training.–)
The walk concluded

Do not worry about getting it “right”. In-fact, do not worry at all. Take control. Just move forward. Just walk. Just embrace the simple beauty of walking, because that’s all it really is – walking. Your dog will follow this mind set.

A human walking a dog how they were supposed to be walked is a truly beautiful thing to me. It shows the owner’s pure commitment to fulfilling the dog’s needs. So natural and calming, I find it defines not only the dog’s purpose, but our own.

If you can master the walk, you can do anything.

Walk with confidence and peace, Good Luck.

George Manning

What is a “Dog”?

So what exactly is what we now call today a “dog”? The dog’s scientific name is Canis lupus familiaris, simply meaning ‘dog that is a wolf that is domestic’. The dog is classed as a subspecies of the Gray Wolf, making it quite literally classifiable as a wolf. So in scientific terms the domestic wolf would be more correct. The word “dog” in relation to the species can be linked both to its genus Canis and its family – Canidae. Canis refers to several species including Jackals, Wolves and Coyotes. Canidae however refers to many species, ranging from the African Wild Dog to the many variations of the Fox. So it would be correct to state that indeed Foxes, Jackals, Wolves and all the other species in the Canidae family are dogs, and the term “dog” to refer simply to the domesticated version of the wolf no longer becomes scientifically entirely correct, more like a nickname.

We humans domesticated wild wolves to create what we now know today as the domestic dog. Although exactly when is not known, it is estimated that it may have occurred between 10-15,000 years ago, when humans were hunter-gatherers. Certain wolves decided to scavenge from human kills when possible. Inevitably some of these wolves tested approaching the humans, the ones that succeeded then lived on and the tamest survived. This eventually led to the humans’ realisation that these wolves’ skills could be honed, to hunt, to protect and to assist. So wolves were gradually accustomed to human contact, human communication and human control. Subsequently the process of selective breeding began. Selective breeding started out as simply killing off the most aggressive and least useful, but has slowly evolved to the careful process that is breeding today, resulting in a wide variety of breeds, most certainly not just for hunting purposes. Without dogs, we would not have become the civilisation we are today, and without us, dogs would not exist, we are interdependent among each other. Although I have summarized this process, it was of course actually a very gradual process that took thousands of years and is a very important process to know.

One of the main factors that show dogs are domestic wolves is that the domestic dog shares a genetic structure with the wolf that is over 99.8% similar. This is astounding, in-fact there are not many other species that share such similarities. This means that scientifically speaking, would it be correct to assume that some physical and psychological traits have been passed down from the wolf to the domestic dog? In most ways yes, but in some ways no. For example, Dogs have lost the innate fear of humans that wild wolves have, so they can project submission, dominance or even aggression towards humans. Wolves are not like this at all; innately they are highly fearful of humans (for reasons including prolonged hunting). Dogs have also learnt our communication, how to interpret and respond to our body language and voice. As during the domestication process those animals that could do this efficiently were treasured, kept and bred. Dogs have also learnt to live in a human environment, to feel comfortable indoors. Although dogs have all these new traits and many more since domestication, they have maintained some traits from wolves. I translate these traits into needs and summarise them into three categories; migration, hierarchy and socialisation. These I will go into more detail on in future articles and they will be the basis of explaining all behavior problems. A quick summary: migration is the need to travel/migrate every day; hierarchy is the need to know where they stand in the pack; socialisation is the need to socialise with members of their pack and other packs.

The original trait that formed the basis of these three needs is pack orientation. Pack orientation is a trait most definitely passed down from wolves, the need to be in a pack.

-George Manning-